Category Archives: Homebrew Hacks

Adding a Tri-clamp Fitting to a Homebrew Keg Lid!

This article is by Homebrew Finds Reader Kris G. Thank you Kris for your creativity and hard work!

Editors Note: This is an advanced project that requires additional tools, skill and materials. This post outlines the process that Kris took to modify his keg lid with a weldless tri-clamp bulkhead. Product specifications can change over time, double check to make sure that current specifications match your needs.

Adding a Tri-clamp Fitting to a Homebrew Keg Lid

Carboys, conicals, buckets, kegs, etc. There is an ever-growing number of options for fermentation vessels. I recently moved away from carboys to experiment with pressurized fermentation. I didn’t feel like buying anything new, so why not repurpose a corny keg for fermentation? This past year I “right-sized” my batches down to 2.5-3 gallons making a corny the perfect size for fermenting. With a couple modifications (shortened dip tube, hop screen, etc), I had an old 5 gallon corny now as a dedicated fermenter. An added bonus was that it fit perfectly in my temp-controlled chest freezer.

Fermenting in a Keg Using TC Equipped Lid

Related: Fermenting Under Pressure

I started seeing some other homebrew fermenters with tri-clamp connections on top. Blogs all around showed them used with blowoff tubes, thermowells, carbonation stones, CIP spray balls, etc. It seemed like a great universal connection with a ton of uses. Most importantly to me, I wanted the tri-clamp connection to build an oxygen-free dry hop dropper (that build is an article for another day).

TC Equipped Lid with Butterfly Valve – Also: Color Coded Keg O-Rings

Read on to see my trials and tribulations while adding a TC bulkhead to my corny lid.
Build note: This is a weldless build. If you’ve got the ability/skill/tools to weld stainless, go for it!

Safety Note: Ensure that you are using all tools properly and wearing all the proper PPE. You will be drilling/cutting metal which is both sharp and hot.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
HBF is not responsible for your irresponsibility. At time of this writing, I am fully up to date with my tetanus shot. That may or may not be related…

Supplies

Cornelius keg lid with wideset bail (the lids that have the narrow straight bails don’t leave enough room)
Weldless tri-clamp bulkhead
1-5/8” (41mm) Tungsten Carbide Hole Saw (or step bit)

Editors Note: Note that multiple variations of these products may be available, as such a different version may appear at these links. Double check sizes and features.

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Using a Tire Inflator To Check for Keg Leaks

I see two primary ways to check for keg CO2 leaks

Soak everything with Star San and look for bubbles
and… the Pressure Gauge Method

I’ve been a big proponent of the Pressure Gauge Method and, to my knowledge, coined the term and made the original case for this technique. In practice, I use both as they compliment each other.

This post outlines a modified version of the Pressure Gauge Method using DeWalt’s DCC020IB Cordless Tire Inflator. I’m a fan of DeWalt’s 20V Max Lineup of Tools. Looking around for 20V MAX compatible equipment, I ran into the DCC020IB Cordless Tire Inflator. Note that this post outlines something I have personally done. I am not recommending that you do it. See the end of this post additional disclaimers.

Why the Pressure Gauge Method?

The main benefit of The Pressure Gauge Method is it’s ability to check a certain problem spot. Secondarily, it’s less messy than the “soak everything with Star San” approach.

A problem spot. There is one place on the CO2 side that the soak-everything-with-Star-San method doesn’t really work…. the keg’s gas post. Testing at this point using the spray bottle method is impossible (or at the very least difficult and messy). Unless your poppet is messed up, leaks will only surface here when a gas QD is actually engaged. The problem is, you can’t easily see that spot when a QD on. Stated more simply, you need a QD on to see if it’s leaking, but you can’t see it if a QD is on.

A Quick Look at DeWalt’s DEWALT 20V MAX Cordless Tire Inflator DCC020IB

The left screen shows current pressure the right screen shows set pressure. The dial allows you to set pressure and start and stop the inflator.A closeup of an installed 20V MAX Lithium Ion Battery. Helping trim weeds one day and check kegs for leaks the next!

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Control Your Kegerator Or Fermentation Chamber With Samsung SmartThings!

I have Samsung SmartThings installed in my home. SmartThings requires a central hub. That hub communicates with other… SmartThings. Loads of compatible devices using a number of protocols are available from multiple vendors. Search Amazon for “smartthings” to see what’s out there. After these things are connected, you can program automations or routines that define how they operate under certain conditions. All of this is interoperable with other platforms like Google Home and Alexa.

This post is about using SmartThings to control the temperature of your kegerator or fermentation chamber. To do that, I use three things – A SmartThings Hub, a Multipurpose Sensor and a Kasa Smart Plug. Labels and photos show both kegerator and fermentation chamber scenarios. This concept should work for both applications.

The Multipurpose Sensor can do several things including monitor temperatureThe other piece to the puzzle was a smart plug to tum the kegerator/freezer/fridge off and on as needed. I used a Kasa Smart WiFi Plug by TP-Link. It worked like a champ. I used this because it’s what I had, but wouldn’t necessarily recommend this one. Keep reading for more on that.

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Monitoring Kegerator or Fermentation Temps With Samsung SmartThings

This post is about using SmartThings Multipurpose Sensor to monitor temperatures in your kegerator or fermentation chamber. Labels and photos show both kegerator and fermentation chamber scenarios. This concept should work for both applications.

The Multipurpose Sensor can do several things including monitor temperature. Note that a SmartThings hub and Wi-Fi are also required.

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Protect and Monitor Your Beer Fridge With Samsung SmartThings!

This post is about using SmartThings to help protect and monitor your beer fridge. To do that, I use two things – A SmartThings Hub and a Multipurpose Sensor.

The Multipurpose Sensor can do several things including monitor temperature, monitor the open and close status and sense vibrations.A look at the Multipurpose SensorInitially I had planned to use the open/close sensing feature of this sensor for this project. However, the space between the body of my beer fridge and the door itself was too large. Fortunately, this sensor also detects vibration. That means my setup was as easy as placing this in the door. Depending on your refrigerator, you may be able to use the open/close sensor.

Monitoring Beer Fridge Access

Here you can see an alert that my beer fridge was opened. Setting that up is as easy as setting up an Automation task in SmartThings to send an alert when vibration is detected. I found this to be a fairly reliable system although I did get some false positives. Example, I periodically received notice when the freezer door was opened. Playing with the sensor location and orientation could help with that.Programming this alert is straightforward. I Just added an automation that is activated when vibration is detected. I chose to “send notification to members” which sends a notification to users of the app. Text message notifications are also an option.

Monitoring Beer Fridge Temperature

The Multipurpose Sensor also monitors temperatures. Super handy to make sure your kegerator or keezer is doing it’s job.You can also take action based on temperature. This screenshot shows an alert I received telling me my beer fridge was too warm. I set the threshold temp to 10 to trigger this alert as you can see from the notification. That’s just so I could get a screenshot, of course, you’d want to choose a reasonable temp.

Programming this alert is straightforward. I Just added an automation that is activated when the Multipurpose Sensor goes above a certain set point. In this case, 40 degrees. You could just as easy write another automation to let you know if it gets too cold. I chose to “send notification to members” which sends a notification to users of the app. Text message notifications are also an option.

Conclusions

If you’re already using SmartThings, this is a fun and inexpensive application. It’s easy to set up and gives you some good info.

Part of our “Homebrew Hacks” Series of Posts! Full Lineup…

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application. Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application. Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

toppost:stbeerfridge tag:tpr

Using a Keg as a CO2 Source for Portable Serving!

This technique uses an economical inline secondary regulator to utilize a spare keg (or growler)as a CO2 source to serve a keg. I’m not suggesting this setup as a replacement for your kegerator CO2 tank. You still need a standard CO2 tank. What this setup could be very useful for is as a replacement for those expensive little regulators or injectors and expensive (considering how much CO2 you get) little CO2 cartridges. One inexpensive purchase allows you to pressurize and serve your keg on the go for little to nothing.

Side Note: I’ve wanted to do this for years. There used to be a commercial sanke keg that had two chambers. One was used as a pressure chamber and the other held beer. I always wanted one of those. The problem was that it was extremely expensive and I just couldn’t justify the expense. This magic little secondary regulator makes something similar easily possible.

The Hardware That Makes This Possible…

Kegland’s economical inline secondary regulators! As of this update there are three versions

Kegland DuoTight Compatible Inline Secondary CO2 Regulator with Gauge
- via MoreBeer
- via William’s Brewing
- via Keg Connection
- via Amazon
Duotight In-Line Regulator D1046 – DuoTight Compatible, No Gauge
Inline Secondary CO2 Regulator – This is the original version, what I’d call v1. It has no gauge and is not DuoTight compatible
- In-Line Secondary CO2 Regulator D1045 – via MoreBeer
- In-Line Secondary CO2 Regulator – via Amazon

Upgrade to Digital!

Kegland has released a digital gauge option that works with their great inline secondary regulator and BlowTie Spunding Valve. They have also released a DuoTight version.

Learn More! Hands on Review: Kegland Digital Gauges
Digital Illuminated Mini Regulator Gauge 0-90 PSI – via William’s Brewing
Digital Mini Pressure Gauge (0-90 psi) D1165 – via MoreBeer

Primary intended Use… Multi-Pressure Serving

Maintaining multiple CO2 pressures in your kegerator gives you the ability to… keep kegs at different pressures. This is a requirement to maintain different carbonation levels. It’s also handy if you want to force carbonate a keg more quickly, at a higher pressure, while maintaining your standard serving pressure on a keg that’s already being served or if you want to have a utility line for purging kegs and such.

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Setting Economy Inline Regulators with a Spunding Valve

These inline secondary regulators have been on the scene for a little while now. At the price I’ve seen them at, sub $10, they are a bargain. They also add a lot of flexibility to your draft setup, allowing you to easily and cheaply vend using multiple pressures and carbonation levels.

Grab One! via William’s Brewing | via MoreBeer

Note that these are inline secondary regulators. You still need a primary regulator attached to your CO2 tank. The idea is, you set the primary to the highest pressure you will use (without exceeding specifications of any component of your system) and then use these regulators inline (one per line) to fine tune pressure and carbonation [See: Balancing Your Draft System]. As an example, you could set your primary to 25 PSI for faster force carbonation and set each line to a different pressure based on desired carbonation level.

Since this does not have a gauge, you need some sort of a gauge to use for tuning in the pressure. The gauge doesn’t have to stay connected, just while you’re setting the regulator. This is a perfect application of a Spunding Valve [See: Build a Spunding Valve! – How and Why]

Thanks to Facebook Friend Rob [8 Ways to Connect with HBF] for his process for setting the Inline Secondary using a Spunding Valve and for the photo walk through!

Here’s Rob Spunding Setup. It’s a Style 3 [See: Build a Spunding Valve! – How and Why] that features a barb, tubing and a valved QD from MoreBeerThis is the assembly hooked up to the low pressure side of his CO2 regulator. Rob starts with the Spunding Valve set to it’s highest pressure to prevent CO2 from venting.

With everything hooked up, you have two options:

Start with the inline regulator fully closed and very slowly work your way up until the Spunding Valve gauge shows reads your desired pressure.
Start with the inline regulator wide open and slowly work your way down, venting the Spunding Valve as needed until you work your way back down to your desired pressure.

This is a photo of the inline regulator set to about 10 PSI, you can see the primary’s low pressure gauge is set to a higher pressure, 20 PSI.

This technique has some great benefits. First, many homebrewers already have a Spunding Valve. This process requires little to no extra gear for Spunding Valve owners. Second, this process should use very little CO2. I’ve been adjusting this using a keg. I’ve used an entire empty 2.5 gallon ball lock and also the head space of a keg. Either way, that amounts to more CO2 compared with Rob’s procedure.

Grab The Gear:

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

hack:setinlinereg

Convert Ball Lock and Pin Lock Kegs to Push to Connect

Push to Connect style fittings are used in plumbing, to install water filter systems. to install drink dispensers and more. Some fittings are for liquids only and some are suitable for use in gas applications.

For whatever reason, I generally find it difficult to find the push to connect style fitting I’m looking for. Getting the exact fitting, that actually works has been elusive to me. There are a good number of manufacturers, the products have different applications and there are just lot of models available.

This post is about a fitting that can convert your ball or pin lock 1/4″ MFL QD to 1/4″ push to connect.

This fitting is a John Guest Female Flare to 1/4″ Tube model # MI4508F4SLFThis installs on MFL ball or pin lock QDs. Here it is installed on my ball lock gas QD. You could just as easily install this on a 1/4″ MFL pin lock QD.Here’s the fitting on an inline secondary regulator – via William’s Brewing | via MoreBeer – that uses 1/4″ push to connect style fittings.Here’s a setup using this fitting

If you’re interested in technical specifications – here is the product page via John Guest. Note that that page covers all size of this fitting, not just the 1/4″ to 1/4″ variant

If you’re looking for this fitting, use the searches below and look for this exact model number and make sure the description reads 1/4″ female flare x 1/4″ tube

Also: What’s the Difference Between Ball Lock Kegs and Pin Lock Kegs?

hack:flaretopush2connect

Adding a Schrader Valve to a Homebrew Keg

Adding a Schrader Style Valve to a Homebrew Keg Continue reading →

Homebrew Hack: Mimicking Dual Stage Temp Control with a Single Stage Controller

Pictured: Inkbird IPB-16 15A Digital Pre-Wired PID Temperature Controller

Overriding temperature controllers give you more control over heating and cooling devices. They work by power cycling the device based on temperatures read. This is extremely valuable for homebrewers for both homebrew kegerators and for controlling fermentation temperatures. This technology allows you to operate a chest freezer at refrigerator-type temperatures. This is even helpful if you’re using a refrigerator, because stock refrigerator thermostats generally do not have the precise controls we’re looking for as homebrewers.

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Mark II Keg and Carboy Washer Mod – Adding a Stainless Steel CIP Spray Ball

I’m a big fan of the Mark II Keg and Carboy Washer. I use mine for lots of things including… kegs, carboys, Speidel Fermenters, buckets, tubing, draft lines [See: Mark II Keg & Carboy Cleaner… As a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump] and more. See: Hands on Review: Mark’s Keg and Carboy Washer for a comprehensive look at this great homebrewing tool.

A while back I became aware of a Stainless CIP Spray Ball (1/2″ size) via a reader tip. Thanks to HBF Reader Sam for the original heads up on these and HBF Reader Chris for the idea to use in conjunction with the Mark II Keg and Carboy Cleaner! [8 Ways to Connect with HBF].

Find a CIP Spray Ball!

Note: The Spray Ball I used in this post has since changed specifications.

Search Amazon for “1/2″ stainless steel cip spray ball” to shop around for available options
ProFlow Dynamics
Brewers Hardware

CIP (Clean in Place) Spray Balls are generally used for vessels that are too large to move. Since they’re too large to move you… clean them in place. If you have a larger setup, you could incorporate these into your system or routine to help clean your vessels more easily.

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Using the Grainfather to Clean Draft Lines

Thanks to Twitter Follower Andy for this tip! [Connect with HBF on Twitter]

The Grainfather is an electric all grain brewing system. Mash temperature is precisely controlled with an electric heating element. A pump recirculates throughout the mashing process ensuring even temperatures. At the end of the mash, The Grainfather becomes your electric brew kettle. The Grainfather includes a counterflow chiller. 8 Gallon system for indoor or outdoor brewing.

The Grainfather

Andy has converted this for use as a draft line cleaning pump using a few fittings

Swivel Flare Adapter – 1/4″ OD barb
1/4″ MFL Male to 1/4″ MFL Male Flare Coupling
Swivel Flare Adapter – 1/2″ OD barb

Check out Andy’s Youtube video detailing the project

Also Consider…

Third Party Resource: This resource is part of our selection of top Third Party homebrewing resources. Check out the entire list of resources Third Party Homebrew Resources

Convert Your Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer to a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump!

Mark’s Keg and Carboy is Awesome

The Mark II Keg and Carboy Washer can clean a lot of your homebrewing gear. Kegs, Carboys, Speidel Fermenters, Tubing, Small Parts & Pieces, Buckets, Keggles and lots more.

Hands On Review: Mark’s Keg and Carboy Washer

Mark’s Keg & Carboy Washer can be found at…

MoreBeer
Adventures in Homebrewing
Mark II Keg and Carboy Washer – via Amazon
Search Amazon for “mark keg and carboy washer” – offerings vary
Great Fermentations
Keg Connection
William’s Brewing

An Easy Upgrade Converts it to a Line Cleaner

A small hardware purchase can convert your Keg and Carboy Washer over to an efficient ball lock draft line cleaning pump.

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Kegerator Beer Line Temperatures & Reducing Foam with a Recirculating Fan

Back in 2014, I had what I would call a reasonably well put together and balanced kegerator. In spite of that, for years, I had dealt with the dreaded first foamy pint of beer. After that pint of beer, beer would pour great. That is until a significant delay between pours – overnight or a few hours.

Related Resources – Foam Control & Kegerator Balancing

Diagnose Other Issues

A Closer Look at Kegerator Beer Line Temps

The setup. I have two temperature probes in my kegerator. One is zip-tied to the top of a beverage line. The other is zip-tied to a can of beer. That’s how I have kept the probe in my kegerator for a long time with the thinking that the mass of the can of beer will help to stabilize temperature readings and give overall stable and accurate readings. That can is sitting on the compressor hump of my Kenmore Deep Freeze (8.8 Cu ft Model 16932, out of production). That puts it about mid keg.

Beer Line Temps – No Recirculation Fan

The cause of the problem is pretty clear. Heat rises. That means the top of your kegerator is going to be warmer than the bottom of your kegerator. That warmer beer foams when it comes out. The faucet and shank are also warmer. That warmth adds to the problem.

How much is the temperature variance? Of course, this will vary from setup to setup and climate to climate. I was relatively shocked by the temperature difference in my own kegerator.

The top reading about mid keg and the bottom reading is the top the top of my beer lines. These are about 22″ apart. This graph shows a point in time variance between the two of 14.9 degrees F. My beer is about the temperature I want it, but the top of my serving line is much warmer. That difference in temperature causes the first pint to have too much foam. Pours that happen soon after the first are fine. The tubing, shank and beer are relatively cool.

Adding a Recirculating Fan to Reduce Beer Foam

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Build a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

Clean kegerator lines are a key part of serving delicious beer. Bacteria and mineral build in lines can cause off flavors, quick loss of head, under-carbonated beer due to rapid co2 loss and lack of legs forming on the inside of your beer glass.

Limited Time Deal:

Helps you clean multiple lines at the same time…

Valuebrew is offering a pack of two jumpers and 25 replacement o-rings for $32.97. Coupon code JUMP discounts the combo by a whopping 32%.

Double Jumper Special! < note that you must use this link along with coupon code JUMP to get the deal, the standard product will not get you the discount

Valuebrew’s jumper is unique because of the custom color, food grade o-rings and because … it works with both liquid and ball lock jumpers.

The directions on most line cleaners call for recirculating the cleaner for some period of time. Most affordable cleaning setups that are out there include a hand pump. Operating one of those for 15 to 30 minutes, for each faucet, doesn’t sound fun.

To really clean your draft lines, you need to keep solution flowing for a length of time, not just fill and wait. Initially I tried to clean my system by pushing line cleaner out of a keg. This was a waste of CO2. I also found it tough to keep solution running slowly enough to get the required amount of contact time. It’s easy to quickly push a cleaning or sanitizing solution through your system under CO2 pressure, but I found it to be a pain to try to do so slowly. This also requires quite a bit of cleaning solution versus a recirculating pump.

I decided to put together a recirculating draft line cleaning pump setup.

Building a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

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How To: Step by Step Making a Magnetic Drip Tray

Pictured: Update International DTS-419 Rectangular Stainless Steel Drip Tray, 19 by 4-Inch – via Amazon

Step by Step instructions for making a magnetic drip try for your Kegerator or Keezer

By: HBF Reader Andrew Cunje

Materials:

19″ Drip Tray – via Amazon
4′ of 6x.5 Poplar Wood (actual width is 5.5″)
1’4″ of 6×1 Poplar Wood (actual width is 5.5″) Note: A thicker wood will suffice for this…remember the longer the wood extends down from the joint, the less likely the magnetic bond will break from the leverage applied to the edge of the drip tray.)
4-5ft of Decorative Trim of your choice (Sold in lengths of 8′)
MUST BE 1.25-1.5 inch trim. I used 1.5 which I highly recommend.
3/4″ mounting screws (for magnets) or Epoxy/Gorilla Glue
1″ wood screws
Brad/Finishing Nails
1 large old skewl hard drive magnets (Bigger with Mounting Holes than newer drives) (Alternative: rare earth neodymium magnets that are .5″ thick (Approximately 8); these can be stacked if you can only find .25″ magnets)
Wood Glue
Wood Putty (Optional)
Wood Stain (Optional)
Tennis Racket Grip Tap (Or an old yellow rubber glove). Anything rubbery and tacky to increase friction against the fridge.

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Install a Priming and Purging Port for Easy Homebrew Pump Operation

I use my March Pump to recirculate/vorlauf, transfer wort to my brew kettle, chill with a recirculating immersion chiller and transfer to my fermenter. It works great, helps me chill down very quickly and overall, it shaves a significant amount of time off my brew day.

Losing Prime, Cavitation and Clogs

When I first started using this pump, I struggled with it. It continually lost prime and, less often, clogged with grain material. Disassembling the pump head is not what I consider a real time saver. That’s no good!

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Vacuum Sealing Mylar Bags Using FoodSaver Vacuum Sealers

Vacuum sealing with a FoodSaver, Seal-a-Meal or similar is a great way store food, hops, grains, spices and more. Vacuum bags work to seal out oxygen, prevent freezer burn and more.

What Are the Advantages Mylar Bags?

Generally speaking Mylar bags consist of three layers. Two Mylar layers that laminate a center aluminum foil layer. This combination provides strength, flexibility and durability along with an extremely low Oxygen Transmission Rate (OTR). These bags also block potentially damaging light. Combine this with vacuum sealing and you’ve got an outstanding way to store food & more.

Search Amazon for “food grade mylar bags” – to see lots of current offerings

For homebrewer’s… Vacuum sealed Mylar bags are an excellent way to store hops and other oxygen sensitive materials. As a testament to this, many hop distributors distribute hops in Mylar bags. Sometimes those are vacuum sealed and sometimes they are nitrogen flushed.

Do Mylar Bags Work with FoodSaver Vacuum Sealers?

A FoodSaver (or similar) is a standard home suction type vacuum sealer that relies on special bags. We generally call them… vacuum sealer bags. These bags are embossed or textured to create channels on the inside of the bag. Those channels allow a FoodSaver to draw out air and create a vacuum all while the machine is clamped down. When this process is done a heat strip seals the bag locking in the vacuum state.

Mylar bags have smooth walls. Since they don’t have the required special channels they will not work with FoodSaver machines.

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Build a Spunding Valve! – How and Why

A Spunding Valve allows you to maintain a set pressure. If pressure in the vessel exceeds the set point, it is expelled. It generally consists of an adjustable PRV valve, a tee, a gauge and a way to connect to your keg.

Homebrewing Applications of a Spunding Valve

Pressurized fermentation. Ferment in a 5 or 10 gallon corny keg and use your Spunding Valve instead of an airlock. This allows you to ferment at your desired pressure.
Dry hop under pressure. This allows you to dry hop earlier while reducing oxygenation. Active yeast are more likely to metabolize oxygen that’s introduced during dry hopping during active fermentation. Since CO2 is not exiting beer as vigorously under pressure, wanted compounds, flavors and aromas are more likely to stay in your beer under pressure.
Naturally and accurately carbonate beer right in the keg.
An airlock replacement. Keep the valve wide open for non-pressurized fermentations. Only do this if you have plenty of head space. This wouldn’t make a great blow off tube.
Keg to keg transfers. Use the Spunding Valve to allow excess gas to exit the receiving keg as you transfer under pressure. Helps you achieve a slow, controlled and pressurized transfer.
Fix over-carbonated beers.
Test for keg leaks. Pressurize your keg to serving pressure. Put the Spunding Valve on (with the pressure set well above your serving PSI) and note the reading. The gauge should remain steady. If pressure drops, you know you have a keg leak. The digital build, see below, is especially helpful for this task, The digital gauge reads with .1 PSI resolution making pressure changes easy to spot. It’s worth noting that this checks the entire keg including gas body o-ring. That spot is hard to check and other way as it’s only in function when the gas QD is on. When the gas QD is on… it’s difficult to spray and check for bubbles underneath the gas QD. Thanks to Scott Janish for this tip!
As an airlock for long term aging of beers. Airlocks can run dry over time. A Spunding Valve will not.
Utilize CO2 from fermentation for flushing kegs and fermenters.

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