Category Archives: Brew Hardware

Stainless Steel PRV from Brew Hardware + Spunding Valve Build

stainless steel adjustable prv spunding

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

1/4″ NPT threads. 100% stainless with a buna seat.

0-30psi give or take. Spring-based relief valves are not exactly precision so expect a plus or minus of a couple PSI.

Uses? Measuring carbonation level in a keg already carbonated (measure temp, measure constant pressure over an hour, refer to carbonation chart), Vent a keg that is naturally carbonating with priming sugar to avoid overcarbonation, pressure ferment in a corny (the true meaning of spunding).

We include this item in our complete spunding units.

Warning: Be extremely careful with pressurized vessels. This item is not suitable as the only means of pressure relief in a completely sealed tank because the flow rate is relatively low and it may be clogged easily such as in the case of fermentation will inadequate head space. Please consider using a secondary pressure relief method at a slightly higher pressure setting for added safety. In the case of a corny keg for example, the lid has a pressure relief that will blow before the safe pressure rating of the keg.

Note: some customers have expressed confusion or disappointment in how this unit behaves. To be very clear to avoid confusion, this unit does not have reliable visual indicators to help set the unit to vent at a specific pressure. In other words, there is no detent or marking that says “vent at 10 psi”. Spring-based vents are relatively crude devices and as such the exact venting pressure at any given knob position is only reliably gauged by pressurizing with an external source such as compressed air or CO2 and observing the vent pressure with an installed pressure gauge such as how we build our spunding valves.

Another way to say it as a practical example, if you want to set it to vent at 10 psi, you would tighten up the knob, apply about 20 psi into the system and then rotate the knob counterclockwise until it begins to vent. Watch the gauge and see where it stops venting. That is now the current vent pressure setting. If it’s higher than desired, rotate the knob a little more counterclockwise until venting starts and then stops at the correct pressure. Once you think you have it right, add more pressure to the system and make sure it vents down to the pressure once again.


Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

 

This could be used as part of a Spuding Valve assembly.  A Spunding Valve [See: Spunding Valve Resource Post] allows you to ferment under pressure, naturally and precisely carbonate in the keg, fix over-carbonated beers and lots more.

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

Homebrew Finds is Spunding Central! Build a Spunding Valve! – How and Why  << a top resource on the subject

More: Recent Great Deals

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly. Check the product page for current price, description and availability. prod:bhssprv

The SpinCycle Overboard from Brew Hardware – NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return – from $18

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

SpinCycle Overboard NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return  from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Brewers that use immersion chillers and also own a pump should know that recirculating the wort back into the kettle to whirlpool the wort makes for much faster cooling and will also make a concentrated pile of trub and hop particles in the center of the kettle bottom.

This is our third version of the industry leading whirpooling hardware. The original SpinCycle and SpinCycle Submerge both require a hole to be drilled into your kettle. Some people drill holes without a second thought but this one is for people who can’t or do not want to modify their kettle.

We’ve built this unit one at a time on a customer request basis for years but we’ve finally bulk manufactured them to be able to get them out faster. It starts with a length of 1/2″ OD 304 polished SS tubing that bends up and over the kettle wall, then drops straight down through a heavy duty spring clamp. Finally the bottom is bent 90 degrees to kick the output to your sidewall and make the liquid spin.

You have your choice of how the flow gets in to the unit. The cheap way is to select “open tube on the end” and then just clamp your hose over it. The more realistic option is to select “Silver soldered male Camlock” if you use camlock quick disconnects in your system. Note that in this particular case, the cam is TIG welded at our factory even though the option says “silver soldered”. This is the version shown in the main picture.

The other choice is what the maximum drop is from the top of the pot to the output tube. To be clear, these are the lengths when the tubing is slid as far down in the clamp as possible. You can easily shorten the depth by taking pressure off the spring clamp and sliding the tubing up.


 

  • This starts at just $18, depending on which version you choose.
  • Availability is a real issue with this.  Typically when it’s available, it sells out quickly.
  • As of this posting, it’s back in stock!  Check the product page to see if you can still get in on this.
  • Is it out of stock again?  We keeping a close eye on this.  Connect with HBF to stay in the loop!  We’ll let you know when it’s available again.

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Also

More: Recent Great Deals

pst:spincycle

Brew Hardware Ball Lock Keg QD Jumper Post – Clean Draft Lines + Draft Line Cleaning Pump Build – from brewhardware.com

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

This custom fitting is designed to allow you to connect two ball lock QDs together for the purpose of cleaning your draft lines more quickly and easily.


DIY!  Related Projects:


From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

New and improved version of this fitting is much easier to connect than previous stock. We’ve moved the locking groove closer to the ends so the poppet in your QD doesn’t have to compress as much.

Maybe this is a strange idea but that’s how we roll. This custom made fitting allows you to connect a liquid or gas ball lock coupler/disconnect to both sides. It’s made so that the poppet is depressed to get full flow through both lines. Why?
If you’ve got a multiple faucet kegerator, you’re probably used to cleaning your lines one tap at a time. There are a lot of different ways to run cleaner through the lines whether it be pumping, or maybe even dispensing BLC or other cleaners through by pressurizing a spare keg. The BEST way to clean lines is to use a pump because cleaner in motion works better than static. Here’s how we do it. We use a chugger pump fed from a spare pot or cooler and the output of the pump goes into the first faucet (simply clamp the hose on to the nozzle). The serving line goes to this ball lock jumper fitting, then into the serving line of the next faucet. On the outside of this faucet you can either run it back into your cleaner reservoir or continue to daisy chain to as many faucets as you have. Please note that if you have the faucet style where the piston sticks out of the front of the faucet, you can’t do this because it will leak at that spot.



The beauty of this method is that you don’t have to take your disconnects off the lines or take them apart for cleaning. The cleaner goes through everything. You can also use it with only one QD attached which would then just hold the poppet open for you.

This item is JUST the doubled ended jumper post fitting with two included ORINGS as seen in the picture (may be red or black). We only show the ball lock QD in the second picture to show application at a glance.


bulkhead deal

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources!

More: Our Last Fifty Finds!

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly. Check the product page for current price, description and availability. pst:bhjumper

The SpinCycle Overboard from Brew Hardware – NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return! – from $18

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

SpinCycle Overboard NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return  from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Brewers that use immersion chillers and also own a pump should know that recirculating the wort back into the kettle to whirlpool the wort makes for much faster cooling and will also make a concentrated pile of trub and hop particles in the center of the kettle bottom.

This is our third version of the industry leading whirpooling hardware. The original SpinCycle and SpinCycle Submerge both require a hole to be drilled into your kettle. Some people drill holes without a second thought but this one is for people who can’t or do not want to modify their kettle.

We’ve built this unit one at a time on a customer request basis for years but we’ve finally bulk manufactured them to be able to get them out faster. It starts with a length of 1/2″ OD 304 polished SS tubing that bends up and over the kettle wall, then drops straight down through a heavy duty spring clamp. Finally the bottom is bent 90 degrees to kick the output to your sidewall and make the liquid spin.

You have your choice of how the flow gets in to the unit. The cheap way is to select “open tube on the end” and then just clamp your hose over it. The more realistic option is to select “Silver soldered male Camlock” if you use camlock quick disconnects in your system. Note that in this particular case, the cam is TIG welded at our factory even though the option says “silver soldered”. This is the version shown in the main picture.

The other choice is what the maximum drop is from the top of the pot to the output tube. To be clear, these are the lengths when the tubing is slid as far down in the clamp as possible. You can easily shorten the depth by taking pressure off the spring clamp and sliding the tubing up.


 

  • This starts at just $18, depending on which version you choose.
  • Availability is a real issue with this.  Typically when it’s available, it sells out quickly.
  • As of this posting, it’s back in stock!  Check the product page to see if you can still get in on this.
  • Is it out of stock again?  We keeping a close eye on this.  Connect with HBF to stay in the loop!  We’ll let you know when it’s available again.

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Also

More: Recent Great Deals

pst:spincycle

The Steam Slayer from Brew Hardware! – Kettle Steam Condenser Assembly – eliminates need to vent from your brewing room

STEAM SLAYER - KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

The Steam Slayer via Brew Hardware is designed to eliminate the need to vent steam from your brewing room.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

The Steam Slayer(tm) is a brand new product that eliminates the need to vent steam from your brewing room. More and more people are converting over to electric brewing systems allowing brewing indoors and even in quite confined spaces. The rude awakening occurs when you evaporate a gallon or more water into the air and your walls and ceiling drips with condensation. In some cases it is impossible or unreasonable to install fan-based exhaust systems to vent that steam. Enter the Steam Slayer!

Condensing boil steam is a relatively common practice in large scale industry and some breweries. Homebrewtalk.com user “Brundog” did a lot of experimentation and documentation and many folks built clone systems in turn. When it came time to install one on the shop brewing kettle, we couldn’t leave well enough alone with off the shelf parts.

How It Works:
You will install a 1.5″ TC port in the upper sidewall of your electric powered boil kettle, typically as high as you can get it without interfering with the closure of the kettle’s lid. The unit is equipped with a fine mist sprayer that fits inside the main body and is fed with cold tap water. When you reach a boil in your kettle, you will put the lid on and start the flow of cold water into the unit. Steam will enter the tee and encounter the spray turning the steam back into water. The waste water runs out the bottom of the unit into the included silicone hose which you will position over a catch bucket. Depending on your tap water pressure, and the selected sprayer option, you will typically consume 6-10 gallons of water in a 60 minute boil. This water can be discarded or saved for cleaning your equipment afterwards.

What’s Included:

  • Main Body Tee with 1.5″ TC top and side flanges and welded 5/8″ hose barb on the bottom.
  • 1.5″ TC sprayer adapter with your choice of 6 or 9 gallon per hour sprayer tip. The GPH ratings are at 40 PSI. We find the 6GPM works great on 45 PSI on a 7 gallon boil. If you have low pressure, you may need the 9GPM sprayer. If you are doing 10 or 15 gallon batches, you may need the 9 GPH. We are still trying to figure out better guidelines.
  • Right angle water shut off valve with push in connection five feet of 1/4″ poly supply line (5ft is standard, select longer runs in the dropdown selection above.
  • Water supply connection fitting with push in connection: Your choice of 3/4″ Female Garden Hose or In-Line faucet connection valve (select in the drop down above). More about this in the instructions below.
  • 3 feet of 1/2″ ID silicone hose for waste water drain. The tubing must reach from the bottom of the steam slayer body to the TOP of your catch bucket. If you need more tubing, it can be purchased by the foot and we can combine the added length onto the standard 3′ if you direct us to.
  • Hose holder clip to keep drain hose positioned at the inside top of your collection bucket.

* Note that the clamp and gasket to attach the unit to the kettle is not included, nor is the hardware to install the actual TC port in the kettle. See the list of available accessories if you need any of those parts.

Instructions:
First, keep in mind that this is a new process for small scale homebrewing and we’re all learning the best practices. When you buy this unit, consider yourself a part of a beta test. These instructions will evolve.

  1. Clamp the main unit to the existing kettle port and the sprayer TC to the top of the unit. The integrated hose barb should be facing down towards the floor.
  2. Install your water source fitting. If you selected the Garden Hose fitting, attach it to your garden hose bib, a garden hose, a slop sink faucet, or a washing machine supply port. If you selected the inline faucet supply fitting, shut off the cold water valve under your sink, remove the hose feeding your faucet and install the inline fitting. Replace the faucet hose on top and turn the water back on to check for leaks. The inline faucet fitting is shown on the right. Just below that we show where it would install under a sink or toilet.
  3. Connect the 1/4″ Poly line to your source water fitting and the shutoff valve on the top of the Steam Slayer. Making sure the ends are cut cleanly, simply push the tubing into the fittings all the way and install the C-shaped retaining clips.
  4. Install the silicone waste tubing on the unit’s barb and attach the holder clip to the end. We include a 5/8″ OD stainless steel ring that should be inserted into the end of the silicone to expand the tubing large enough to fit the holder clip tightly. The waste tubing should be trimmed so that it only extends into your catch bucket/vessel by 1-2 inches. The open end of this tubing must never be submergedor the steam slayer will not work properly.
  5. Once your boil begins, turn on the cooling water and place your kettle lid on the kettle. Since the condensing action creates a mild vacuum, the lid does not need a gasket. If you notice steam leaking out of the lid, make sure it is not warped creating extra spaces.
  6. Adjust your boil intensity to approximately HALF of what you’re used to using and plan for about half as much boil off. For a typical example, we used to run our 5500 watt element at 65% when the kettle is full of 7 gallons and the lid off. We experienced 1.5 gallons per hour of boil off. With the Steam Slayer installed, we run at 32% and experience .75 gallons of boil off per hour. In other words, to use the Steam Slayer, your electric kettle must be equipped with a power controller.

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Can I go through the lid?

Yes. In order to through the lid, you will need to install a 1.5″ TC port towards the edge and then clamp on a 1.5″ TC 90 degree elbow. From there the Steam Slayer gets clamped on as noted above. You may need to place a counterweight on top of the lid, opposite the TC port to keep it firmly seated on the kettle.

2. I use the BIAB method and I’m concerned that a side mount TC port will reduce my kettle capacity.

You can put a TC blank cover over the port during the mash and then fit the Steam Slayer after you pull the grain bag.

3. How do I run the hot waste water directly to a plumbing drain.

We don’t know for sure. We do know that you want the water to freely drain out. Even in cases where the output hose bends into a loop where water collects in the hose is enough to stop the vacuum on the kettle. You may get steam to escape via the lid if there is any back pressure on the drain hose. If your sewer pipe is well below your brewing location, you can run a horizontal drain line over to the kettle, install a P-trap and then end in an oversized vertical entrance pipe. Treat this like the catch bucket and run the silicone drain hose to it using the holder clip to hold it to the upper lip of the pipe.

About, from Brew Hardware: “Sometimes we have a grand plan for a given fitting. This time we’re just spit balling to see what sticks. We took the profile of a ball lock keg post and replaced the poppit and spring with just two large bored out holes. The other end is a generous 3/8″ OD hose barb that will work with 3/8′ ID silicone, 5/16″ Racking tubing, or whatever.”

 

  • Since Brew Hardware introduced this, availability has been an issue.
  • As of this posting, it’s in stock at $129.99.  That can change quickly.
  • We keep a close eye on the Steam Slayer.  If it’s sold out again – connect with us – and we’ll give you a heads up when it’s back.

STEAM SLAYER – KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

More: Recent Great Deals

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions. prod:bwsslay

Brew Hardware 10 Gallon Cooler to Mash Tun Conversion Kit – $68! + Hands on Review

cooler conversion kit

This Brew Hardware Mash Tun Conversion Kit includes everything you need to convert a 10 gallon Igloo or Home Depot Rubbermaid Cooler to a Mash Tun.  Note that it does not includes a cooler.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

  • 12″ stainless steel domed false bottom with upgraded large ID connection elbow
  • One piece (Brew Hardware custom designed) machined bulkhead with interior barb
  • 2 piece stainless ball valve – can be upgraded to 3 piece
  • Required length of high temp silicone tubing
  • Does not include cooler or barb/camlock.  Barb and camlock fitting options are available under accessories on the right side of the screen.

What makes our kit different than the competition? Ugh, now we have to brag just a little. The bulkhead we include in this kit is custom machined out of hex bar stock to our exact specifications making it extremely simple to install and leak free from day one. It’s not a bunch of off the shelf parts made with half a roll of teflon tape. We also use a high flow elbow connector at the false bottom which also features a custom made smooth bore retainer. Long story short, we’ve held off on offering cooler false bottom kits for a long time until we had all the high end components described here.


 

Options are available both for an Igloo 10 gallon cooler and for Home Depot’s 10 gallon cooler.   A complete converted option is also available.  That includes the cooler along with your choice of connection fittings.  In my experience it’s cheaper to grab the conversion kit from Brew Hardware and source the cooler separately.  See some links to compatible coolers below.

This is the conversion kit I use and it’s… awesome.   tn_img_0322-300x225Check out my Hands on Review.

  • This has been sold out for quite some time.
  • As of this posting a limited number are back in stock at $68.
  • Pricing and, especially, availability can vary.  Check Brew Hardware for current, description, price and availability.

COOLER TO MASH TUN CONVERSION KIT

Related:

More: Our Last Fifty Finds!


Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability rp:bhconversion

The Steam Slayer from Brew Hardware! – Kettle Steam Condenser Assembly – eliminates need to vent from your brewing room

STEAM SLAYER - KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

The Steam Slayer via Brew Hardware is designed to eliminate the need to vent steam from your brewing room.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

The Steam Slayer(tm) is a brand new product that eliminates the need to vent steam from your brewing room. More and more people are converting over to electric brewing systems allowing brewing indoors and even in quite confined spaces. The rude awakening occurs when you evaporate a gallon or more water into the air and your walls and ceiling drips with condensation. In some cases it is impossible or unreasonable to install fan-based exhaust systems to vent that steam. Enter the Steam Slayer!

Condensing boil steam is a relatively common practice in large scale industry and some breweries. Homebrewtalk.com user “Brundog” did a lot of experimentation and documentation and many folks built clone systems in turn. When it came time to install one on the shop brewing kettle, we couldn’t leave well enough alone with off the shelf parts.

How It Works:
You will install a 1.5″ TC port in the upper sidewall of your electric powered boil kettle, typically as high as you can get it without interfering with the closure of the kettle’s lid. The unit is equipped with a fine mist sprayer that fits inside the main body and is fed with cold tap water. When you reach a boil in your kettle, you will put the lid on and start the flow of cold water into the unit. Steam will enter the tee and encounter the spray turning the steam back into water. The waste water runs out the bottom of the unit into the included silicone hose which you will position over a catch bucket. Depending on your tap water pressure, and the selected sprayer option, you will typically consume 6-10 gallons of water in a 60 minute boil. This water can be discarded or saved for cleaning your equipment afterwards.

What’s Included:

  • Main Body Tee with 1.5″ TC top and side flanges and welded 5/8″ hose barb on the bottom.
  • 1.5″ TC sprayer adapter with your choice of 6 or 9 gallon per hour sprayer tip. The GPH ratings are at 40 PSI. We find the 6GPM works great on 45 PSI on a 7 gallon boil. If you have low pressure, you may need the 9GPM sprayer. If you are doing 10 or 15 gallon batches, you may need the 9 GPH. We are still trying to figure out better guidelines.
  • Right angle water shut off valve with push in connection five feet of 1/4″ poly supply line (5ft is standard, select longer runs in the dropdown selection above.
  • Water supply connection fitting with push in connection: Your choice of 3/4″ Female Garden Hose or In-Line faucet connection valve (select in the drop down above). More about this in the instructions below.
  • 3 feet of 1/2″ ID silicone hose for waste water drain. The tubing must reach from the bottom of the steam slayer body to the TOP of your catch bucket. If you need more tubing, it can be purchased by the foot and we can combine the added length onto the standard 3′ if you direct us to.
  • Hose holder clip to keep drain hose positioned at the inside top of your collection bucket.

* Note that the clamp and gasket to attach the unit to the kettle is not included, nor is the hardware to install the actual TC port in the kettle. See the list of available accessories if you need any of those parts.

Instructions:
First, keep in mind that this is a new process for small scale homebrewing and we’re all learning the best practices. When you buy this unit, consider yourself a part of a beta test. These instructions will evolve.

  1. Clamp the main unit to the existing kettle port and the sprayer TC to the top of the unit. The integrated hose barb should be facing down towards the floor.
  2. Install your water source fitting. If you selected the Garden Hose fitting, attach it to your garden hose bib, a garden hose, a slop sink faucet, or a washing machine supply port. If you selected the inline faucet supply fitting, shut off the cold water valve under your sink, remove the hose feeding your faucet and install the inline fitting. Replace the faucet hose on top and turn the water back on to check for leaks. The inline faucet fitting is shown on the right. Just below that we show where it would install under a sink or toilet.
  3. Connect the 1/4″ Poly line to your source water fitting and the shutoff valve on the top of the Steam Slayer. Making sure the ends are cut cleanly, simply push the tubing into the fittings all the way and install the C-shaped retaining clips.
  4. Install the silicone waste tubing on the unit’s barb and attach the holder clip to the end. We include a 5/8″ OD stainless steel ring that should be inserted into the end of the silicone to expand the tubing large enough to fit the holder clip tightly. The waste tubing should be trimmed so that it only extends into your catch bucket/vessel by 1-2 inches. The open end of this tubing must never be submergedor the steam slayer will not work properly.
  5. Once your boil begins, turn on the cooling water and place your kettle lid on the kettle. Since the condensing action creates a mild vacuum, the lid does not need a gasket. If you notice steam leaking out of the lid, make sure it is not warped creating extra spaces.
  6. Adjust your boil intensity to approximately HALF of what you’re used to using and plan for about half as much boil off. For a typical example, we used to run our 5500 watt element at 65% when the kettle is full of 7 gallons and the lid off. We experienced 1.5 gallons per hour of boil off. With the Steam Slayer installed, we run at 32% and experience .75 gallons of boil off per hour. In other words, to use the Steam Slayer, your electric kettle must be equipped with a power controller.

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Can I go through the lid?

Yes. In order to through the lid, you will need to install a 1.5″ TC port towards the edge and then clamp on a 1.5″ TC 90 degree elbow. From there the Steam Slayer gets clamped on as noted above. You may need to place a counterweight on top of the lid, opposite the TC port to keep it firmly seated on the kettle.

2. I use the BIAB method and I’m concerned that a side mount TC port will reduce my kettle capacity.

You can put a TC blank cover over the port during the mash and then fit the Steam Slayer after you pull the grain bag.

3. How do I run the hot waste water directly to a plumbing drain.

We don’t know for sure. We do know that you want the water to freely drain out. Even in cases where the output hose bends into a loop where water collects in the hose is enough to stop the vacuum on the kettle. You may get steam to escape via the lid if there is any back pressure on the drain hose. If your sewer pipe is well below your brewing location, you can run a horizontal drain line over to the kettle, install a P-trap and then end in an oversized vertical entrance pipe. Treat this like the catch bucket and run the silicone drain hose to it using the holder clip to hold it to the upper lip of the pipe.

About, from Brew Hardware: “Sometimes we have a grand plan for a given fitting. This time we’re just spit balling to see what sticks. We took the profile of a ball lock keg post and replaced the poppit and spring with just two large bored out holes. The other end is a generous 3/8″ OD hose barb that will work with 3/8′ ID silicone, 5/16″ Racking tubing, or whatever.”

 

  • Since Brew Hardware introduced this, availability has been an issue.
  • As of this posting, it’s in stock at $129.99.  That can change quickly.
  • We keep a close eye on the Steam Slayer.  If it’s sold out again – connect with us – and we’ll give you a heads up when it’s back.

STEAM SLAYER – KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

More: Recent Great Deals

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions. prod:bwsslay

Hands on Review: Brew Hardware Cold Crash Guardian!

Thank you to HBF Contributor Aaron N for this hands on review!  Aaron is an advanced brewer, long time reader and a serial tipster!

What is Cold Crashing?

The concept of cold crashing first came across my radar when I was researching the benefits of conical fermenters. The idea of rapidly bringing a fermentation vessel down to near freezing temperatures after fermentation is complete is known in the brewing world as cold crashing. The closer to freezing without freezing the beer the better.


Check Current Price & Availability, Review Continues Below:


Benefits of Cold Crashing

The reasons that attracted me to the practice are mainly two-fold: to enable nearly full harvest of the yeast and to promote a clearer finished beer. The act of bringing the temperature down promotes the dropping of particulates in the beer, be it yeast, trub, or hop debris, which, in a conical fermenter, settles down into the bottom cone. This can then be dropped out into a sanitized vessel to enable rinsing and reusing of the yeast. Then when the beer is packaged it is done so without a lot of the yeast and other particulate material that may not be desirable in the finished product. This allows for a much brighter beer in the end.

Continue reading

Stainless Steel PRV from Brew Hardware + Spunding Valve Build!

stainless steel adjustable prv spunding

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

1/4″ NPT threads. 100% stainless with a buna seat.

0-30psi give or take. Spring-based relief valves are not exactly precision so expect a plus or minus of a couple PSI.

Uses? Measuring carbonation level in a keg already carbonated (measure temp, measure constant pressure over an hour, refer to carbonation chart), Vent a keg that is naturally carbonating with priming sugar to avoid overcarbonation, pressure ferment in a corny (the true meaning of spunding).

We include this item in our complete spunding units.

Warning: Be extremely careful with pressurized vessels. This item is not suitable as the only means of pressure relief in a completely sealed tank because the flow rate is relatively low and it may be clogged easily such as in the case of fermentation will inadequate head space. Please consider using a secondary pressure relief method at a slightly higher pressure setting for added safety. In the case of a corny keg for example, the lid has a pressure relief that will blow before the safe pressure rating of the keg.

Note: some customers have expressed confusion or disappointment in how this unit behaves. To be very clear to avoid confusion, this unit does not have reliable visual indicators to help set the unit to vent at a specific pressure. In other words, there is no detent or marking that says “vent at 10 psi”. Spring-based vents are relatively crude devices and as such the exact venting pressure at any given knob position is only reliably gauged by pressurizing with an external source such as compressed air or CO2 and observing the vent pressure with an installed pressure gauge such as how we build our spunding valves.

Another way to say it as a practical example, if you want to set it to vent at 10 psi, you would tighten up the knob, apply about 20 psi into the system and then rotate the knob counterclockwise until it begins to vent. Watch the gauge and see where it stops venting. That is now the current vent pressure setting. If it’s higher than desired, rotate the knob a little more counterclockwise until venting starts and then stops at the correct pressure. Once you think you have it right, add more pressure to the system and make sure it vents down to the pressure once again.


Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

 

This could be used as part of a Spuding Valve assembly.  A Spunding Valve [See: Spunding Valve Resource Post] allows you to ferment under pressure, naturally and precisely carbonate in the keg, fix over-carbonated beers and lots more.

  • Brew Hardware has this for just $11.99.
  • This is an item that has had consistent availability problems.  If it’s sold out… Connect with HBF and we’ll let you know when it’s available again

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

Alternative: Adjustable Stainless Gas Pressure Relief – 1/4 in. MPT via MoreBeer  << also generally has availability issues

Homebrew Finds is Spunding Central! Build a Spunding Valve! – How and Why  << a top resource on the subject

More: Recent Great Deals

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly. Check the product page for current price, description and availability. prod:bhssprv

Brew Hardware Ball Lock Keg QD Jumper Post – Clean Draft Lines + Draft Line Cleaning Pump Build – from brewhardware.com

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

This custom fitting is designed to allow you to connect two ball lock QDs together for the purpose of cleaning your draft lines more quickly and easily.


DIY!  Related Projects:


From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

New and improved version of this fitting is much easier to connect than previous stock. We’ve moved the locking groove closer to the ends so the poppet in your QD doesn’t have to compress as much.

Maybe this is a strange idea but that’s how we roll. This custom made fitting allows you to connect a liquid or gas ball lock coupler/disconnect to both sides. It’s made so that the poppet is depressed to get full flow through both lines. Why?
If you’ve got a multiple faucet kegerator, you’re probably used to cleaning your lines one tap at a time. There are a lot of different ways to run cleaner through the lines whether it be pumping, or maybe even dispensing BLC or other cleaners through by pressurizing a spare keg. The BEST way to clean lines is to use a pump because cleaner in motion works better than static. Here’s how we do it. We use a chugger pump fed from a spare pot or cooler and the output of the pump goes into the first faucet (simply clamp the hose on to the nozzle). The serving line goes to this ball lock jumper fitting, then into the serving line of the next faucet. On the outside of this faucet you can either run it back into your cleaner reservoir or continue to daisy chain to as many faucets as you have. Please note that if you have the faucet style where the piston sticks out of the front of the faucet, you can’t do this because it will leak at that spot.



The beauty of this method is that you don’t have to take your disconnects off the lines or take them apart for cleaning. The cleaner goes through everything. You can also use it with only one QD attached which would then just hold the poppet open for you.

This item is JUST the doubled ended jumper post fitting with two included ORINGS as seen in the picture (may be red or black). We only show the ball lock QD in the second picture to show application at a glance.


bulkhead deal

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources!

More: Our Last Fifty Finds!

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly. Check the product page for current price, description and availability. pst:bhjumper