Category Archives: Brew Hardware

Hands on Review: Brew Hardware Cold Crash Guardian!

Thank you to HBF Contributor Aaron N for this hands on review!  Aaron is a long time reader and a serial tipster!

What is Cold Crashing?

The concept of cold crashing first came across my radar when I was researching the benefits of conical fermenters. The idea of rapidly bringing a fermentation vessel down to near freezing temperatures after fermentation is complete is known in the brewing world as cold crashing. The closer to freezing without freezing the beer the better.


Check Current Price & Availability, Review Continues Below:


Benefits of Cold Crashing

The reasons that attracted me to the practice are mainly two-fold: to enable nearly full harvest of the yeast and to promote a clearer finished beer. The act of bringing the temperature down promotes the dropping of particulates in the beer, be it yeast, trub, or hop debris, which, in a conical fermenter, settles down into the bottom cone. This can then be dropped out into a sanitized vessel to enable rinsing and reusing of the yeast. Then when the beer is packaged it is done so without a lot of the yeast and other particulate material that may not be desirable in the finished product. This allows for a much brighter beer in the end.

Continue reading

Back In Stock… Brew Hardware – The Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff!

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Cold crash what? It’s the Cold Crash Guardian!

If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer, and to some degree all other beers.

There are finally increasing discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t really work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions. Some vendors are coming up with products but they are comparatively very expensive and most certainly do not reserve enough CO2. Do it yourselfers are experimenting with white bread bags and balloons, but they don’t offer longevity or confident seals. In full transparency, we’ve also struggled with the materials**and design of this solution since we started working on it. We took some time off, worked on new prototypes and have come up with a version that should last a long time and deals with most challenges we came across.

What you get (at the moment the main product picture is not accurate though the video below IS):
This simple but effective kit includes your choice of either a 1 gallon or 2.5 gallon expandable bladder. The 1 gallon is suitable for up to 3 gallon batches while the 2.5 is suitable for up to 10 gallon batches.
The bladder has a valved hose connection.
A nylon double sided 3/8″ hose barb to connect your fermenter’s grommet or carboy cap (you provide) to the included hoses that connect to the bladder as well as a blow off.
One barbed one way check valve. More on that below.
3 ft of 3/8″ ID PVC tubing
3/8″ Stainless Steel hose barb TEE

In summary, the overall layout has a hose coming from your fermenter, splits via an included hose barb TEE. One port of the tee goes to the valved bladder input via a piece of hose. The other port of the tee goes to the one way check valve via a short piece of hose. Optionally a piece of hose can continue on into a jar of starsan (you can end the system at the one way check valve but you won’t have any visual/audio indication of fermentation activity because nothing bubbles.

How it works:

First, you’ll start your fermentation with a standard blow off hose if your fermenter type typically has yeast and chunkage blowing off. The cold crash guardian can handle some blowoff but it’s a mess that can be avoided.

After the peak wave of fermentation is over, the krausen is diminishing, and the risk of blow off is over, you’ll install the cold crash guardian to your fermenter’s output with the collection bag completely deflated and the connect valve in the closed position.

Allow some time to pass, at least a minute or so, to allow the CO2 to purge the oxygen out of the lines. Then open up the valve on the collection bag. CO2 will start flowly filling the collection bag. Excess pressure is vented through the one way check valve. The check valve vents at half of a psi and if you attach a tube, you will see bubbles through the starsan in your catch container.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate by approximately 1/2 to 1 gallon when the beer hits the mid 30F. As days pass at this cold temp, an additional gallon or so will be consumed. Due to the check valve’s use, no starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad. Stop.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization. If you have multiple fermenters in various locations, you’d need either multiple CO2 setups or long hoses.


 

  • Availability of this has been touch and go at best.
  • If you see it in stock, I suggest purchasing sooner rather than later.
  • If it’s not in stock… this is something we keep a close eye on.  Connect with Us to stay in the loop and we’ll let you know when it’s available again.

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

Also Consider: Oxygen Free Cold Crash and Transfer Using a Spunding Valve

More Fermentation Related!

More: Recent Great Deals

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability pst:bhccg

Oxygen Free Cold Crash and Transfer Using a Spunding Valve

Back in Stock… Stainless Steel PRV for Spunding Valves – $11.99 at Brew Hardware

stainless steel adjustable prv spunding

WELDLESS BULKHEAD WITH PIN LOCK GAS from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

1/4″ NPT threads. 100% stainless with a buna seat.

0-30psi give or take. Spring-based relief valves are not exactly precision so expect a plus or minus of a couple PSI.

Uses? Measuring carbonation level in a keg already carbonated (measure temp, measure constant pressure over an hour, refer to carbonation chart), Vent a keg that is naturally carbonating with priming sugar to avoid overcarbonation, pressure ferment in a corny (the true meaning of spunding).

We include this item in our complete spunding units.

Warning: Be extremely careful with pressurized vessels. This item is not suitable as the only means of pressure relief in a completely sealed tank because the flow rate is relatively low and it may be clogged easily such as in the case of fermentation will inadequate head space. Please consider using a secondary pressure relief method at a slightly higher pressure setting for added safety. In the case of a corny keg for example, the lid has a pressure relief that will blow before the safe pressure rating of the keg.

Note: some customers have expressed confusion or disappointment in how this unit behaves. To be very clear to avoid confusion, this unit does not have reliable visual indicators to help set the unit to vent at a specific pressure. In other words, there is no detent or marking that says “vent at 10 psi”. Spring-based vents are relatively crude devices and as such the exact venting pressure at any given knob position is only reliably gauged by pressurizing with an external source such as compressed air or CO2 and observing the vent pressure with an installed pressure gauge such as how we build our spunding valves.

Another way to say it as a practical example, if you want to set it to vent at 10 psi, you would tighten up the knob, apply about 20 psi into the system and then rotate the knob counterclockwise until it begins to vent. Watch the gauge and see where it stops venting. That is now the current vent pressure setting. If it’s higher than desired, rotate the knob a little more counterclockwise until venting starts and then stops at the correct pressure. Once you think you have it right, add more pressure to the system and make sure it vents down to the pressure once again.


 

This could be used as part of a Spuding Valve assembly.  A Spunding Valve [See: Spunding Valve Resource Post] allows you to ferment under pressure, naturally and precisely carbonate in the keg, fix over-carbonated beers and lots more.

  • As of this posting, Brew Hardware has it for $11.99.
  • Brew Hardware has had trouble keeping these in stock since we first shared earlier this year.  They’ve been sold out for quite a while.  As of this posting they’re available again.  Check product page for current availability

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

Also Consider: Adjustable Stainless Gas Pressure Relief – 1/4 in. MPT via MoreBeer

Homebrew Finds is Spunding Central!

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

More: Recent Great Deals

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

Back in Stock… Brew Hardware 10 Gallon Cooler to Mash Tun Conversion Kit – $68 + Hands on Review

cooler conversion kit

This Brew Hardware Mash Tun Conversion Kit includes everything you need to convert a 10 gallon Igloo or Home Depot Rubbermaid Cooler to a Mash Tun.  Note that it does not includes a cooler.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

  • 12″ stainless steel domed false bottom with upgraded large ID connection elbow
  • One piece (Brew Hardware custom designed) machined bulkhead with interior barb
  • 2 piece stainless ball valve – can be upgraded to 3 piece
  • Required length of high temp silicone tubing
  • Does not include cooler or barb/camlock.  Barb and camlock fitting options are available under accessories on the right side of the screen.

What makes our kit different than the competition? Ugh, now we have to brag just a little. The bulkhead we include in this kit is custom machined out of hex bar stock to our exact specifications making it extremely simple to install and leak free from day one. It’s not a bunch of off the shelf parts made with half a roll of teflon tape. We also use a high flow elbow connector at the false bottom which also features a custom made smooth bore retainer. Long story short, we’ve held off on offering cooler false bottom kits for a long time until we had all the high end components described here.


 

Options are available both for an Igloo 10 gallon cooler and for Home Depot’s 10 gallon cooler.   A complete converted option is also available.  That includes the cooler along with your choice of connection fittings.  In my experience it’s cheaper to grab the conversion kit from Brew Hardware and source the cooler separately.  See some links to compatible coolers below.

This is the conversion kit I use and it’s… awesome.   tn_img_0322-300x225Check out my Hands on Review.

  • This has been sold out for quite some time.
  • As of this posting a limited number are back in stock at $68.
  • Pricing and, especially, availability can vary.  Check Brew Hardware for current, description, price and availability.

COOLER TO MASH TUN CONVERSION KIT

Related:

More: Our Last Fifty Finds!


Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability rp:bhconversion

Back In Stock… The SpinCycle Overboard from Brew Hardware – NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return – from $18

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

SpinCycle Overboard NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return  from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Brewers that use immersion chillers and also own a pump should know that recirculating the wort back into the kettle to whirlpool the wort makes for much faster cooling and will also make a concentrated pile of trub and hop particles in the center of the kettle bottom.

This is our third version of the industry leading whirpooling hardware. The original SpinCycle and SpinCycle Submerge both require a hole to be drilled into your kettle. Some people drill holes without a second thought but this one is for people who can’t or do not want to modify their kettle.

We’ve built this unit one at a time on a customer request basis for years but we’ve finally bulk manufactured them to be able to get them out faster. It starts with a length of 1/2″ OD 304 polished SS tubing that bends up and over the kettle wall, then drops straight down through a heavy duty spring clamp. Finally the bottom is bent 90 degrees to kick the output to your sidewall and make the liquid spin.

You have your choice of how the flow gets in to the unit. The cheap way is to select “open tube on the end” and then just clamp your hose over it. The more realistic option is to select “Silver soldered male Camlock” if you use camlock quick disconnects in your system. Note that in this particular case, the cam is TIG welded at our factory even though the option says “silver soldered”. This is the version shown in the main picture.

The other choice is what the maximum drop is from the top of the pot to the output tube. To be clear, these are the lengths when the tubing is slid as far down in the clamp as possible. You can easily shorten the depth by taking pressure off the spring clamp and sliding the tubing up.


 

  • This starts at just $18, depending on which version you choose.
  • Availability is a real issue with this.  Typically when it’s available, it sells out quickly.
  • As of this posting, it’s back in stock!  Check the product page to see if you can still get in on this.
  • Is it out of stock again?  We keeping a close eye on this.  Connect with HBF to stay in the loop!  We’ll let you know when it’s available again.

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Also

More: Recent Great Deals

pst:spincycle

Brew Hardware Factory Second Stainless Steel 3 Piece Ball Valves – $12.99

DISCOUNTED 3-PIECE (3PC) BALL VALVE, 1/2" NPT

3 Piece Stainless Steel Ball Valves via Brew Hardware

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

This is a high quality, medium weight, stainless (304SS) 3-piece body with a non-restricting “full port” ball and 1/2″ NPT female threads on both ends. Use them on your boil kettle, HLT, mash tun, pumps, etc.

NOTE that the this item is for our clearance stock. They are made of the same quality materials as our standard stock of 3pc ball valves but manufacturing tolerances make the handle SLIGHTLY harder to operate. In other words, it takes a little more force to turn than our normal stock. Keep in mind that they are still easier to turn than the valves on many high end kettles but we just don’t feel right mixing them in with our smooth-as-butter stock. If you don’t mind a stiffer operation for your application, you save!

3 piece (3PBV) valves as they come apart much easier than 2pc. Just loosen the four bolts and the whole unit comes apart. The end block can even remain attached to your plumbing or vessel. Another benefit of the 3 piece valve is when tightening into a welded port, the orientation of the valve may end up upside down when the threads fully mesh. A 3pc valve can be reoriented in increments of 90 degrees of rotation.

Our primary stock on valves have vinyl handle wraps branded with the BrewHardware.com name but we may ship units with generic graphics from time to time. Be assured that the actual valve is exactly the same.
Remember to use teflon tape on all threaded connections.


 

  • On sale for just $12.99.
  • No coupon code required, limited quantity available.

DISCOUNTED 3-PIECE (3PC) BALL VALVE, 1/2″ NPT

More: Recent Great Deals

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Back In Stock… Brew Hardware – The Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff!

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Cold crash what? It’s the Cold Crash Guardian!

If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer, and to some degree all other beers.

There are finally increasing discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t really work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions. Some vendors are coming up with products but they are comparatively very expensive and most certainly do not reserve enough CO2. Do it yourselfers are experimenting with white bread bags and balloons, but they don’t offer longevity or confident seals. In full transparency, we’ve also struggled with the materials**and design of this solution since we started working on it. We took some time off, worked on new prototypes and have come up with a version that should last a long time and deals with most challenges we came across.

What you get (at the moment the main product picture is not accurate though the video below IS):
This simple but effective kit includes your choice of either a 1 gallon or 2.5 gallon expandable bladder. The 1 gallon is suitable for up to 3 gallon batches while the 2.5 is suitable for up to 10 gallon batches.
The bladder has a valved hose connection.
A nylon double sided 3/8″ hose barb to connect your fermenter’s grommet or carboy cap (you provide) to the included hoses that connect to the bladder as well as a blow off.
One barbed one way check valve. More on that below.
3 ft of 3/8″ ID PVC tubing
3/8″ Stainless Steel hose barb TEE

In summary, the overall layout has a hose coming from your fermenter, splits via an included hose barb TEE. One port of the tee goes to the valved bladder input via a piece of hose. The other port of the tee goes to the one way check valve via a short piece of hose. Optionally a piece of hose can continue on into a jar of starsan (you can end the system at the one way check valve but you won’t have any visual/audio indication of fermentation activity because nothing bubbles.

How it works:

First, you’ll start your fermentation with a standard blow off hose if your fermenter type typically has yeast and chunkage blowing off. The cold crash guardian can handle some blowoff but it’s a mess that can be avoided.

After the peak wave of fermentation is over, the krausen is diminishing, and the risk of blow off is over, you’ll install the cold crash guardian to your fermenter’s output with the collection bag completely deflated and the connect valve in the closed position.

Allow some time to pass, at least a minute or so, to allow the CO2 to purge the oxygen out of the lines. Then open up the valve on the collection bag. CO2 will start flowly filling the collection bag. Excess pressure is vented through the one way check valve. The check valve vents at half of a psi and if you attach a tube, you will see bubbles through the starsan in your catch container.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate by approximately 1/2 to 1 gallon when the beer hits the mid 30F. As days pass at this cold temp, an additional gallon or so will be consumed. Due to the check valve’s use, no starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad. Stop.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization. If you have multiple fermenters in various locations, you’d need either multiple CO2 setups or long hoses.


 

  • Availability of this has been touch and go at best.
  • If you see it in stock, I suggest purchasing sooner rather than later.
  • If it’s not in stock… this is something we keep a close eye on.  Connect with Us to stay in the loop and we’ll let you know when it’s available again.

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

Also Consider: Oxygen Free Cold Crash and Transfer Using a Spunding Valve

More Fermentation Related!

More: Recent Great Deals

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability pst:bhccg

Oxygen Free Cold Crash and Transfer Using a Spunding Valve

Stock Update: Ball Lock Keg QD Jumper Post [Clean Draft Lines + Draft Line Cleaning Pump Build] – $5.99

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

via Brew Hardware.  This custom fitting is designed to allow you to connect two ball lock QDs together for the purpose of cleaning your draft lines more quickly and easily.


From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

New and improved version of this fitting is much easier to connect than previous stock. We’ve moved the locking groove closer to the ends so the poppet in your QD doesn’t have to compress as much.

Maybe this is a strange idea but that’s how we roll. This custom made fitting allows you to connect a liquid or gas ball lock coupler/disconnect to both sides. It’s made so that the poppet is depressed to get full flow through both lines. Why?
If you’ve got a multiple faucet kegerator, you’re probably used to cleaning your lines one tap at a time. There are a lot of different ways to run cleaner through the lines whether it be pumping, or maybe even dispensing BLC or other cleaners through by pressurizing a spare keg. The BEST way to clean lines is to use a pump because cleaner in motion works better than static. Here’s how we do it. We use a chugger pump fed from a spare pot or cooler and the output of the pump goes into the first faucet (simply clamp the hose on to the nozzle). The serving line goes to this ball lock jumper fitting, then into the serving line of the next faucet. On the outside of this faucet you can either run it back into your cleaner reservoir or continue to daisy chain to as many faucets as you have. Please note that if you have the faucet style where the piston sticks out of the front of the faucet, you can’t do this because it will leak at that spot.

The beauty of this method is that you don’t have to take your disconnects off the lines or take them apart for cleaning. The cleaner goes through everything. You can also use it with only one QD attached which would then just hold the poppet open for you.

This item is JUST the doubled ended jumper post fitting with two included ORINGS as seen in the picture (may be red or black). We only show the ball lock QD in the second picture to show application at a glance.”


HBF Reader [8 Ways to Connect with HBF] Josh Says: “I use two of these, along with my Mark II Keg Washer, and silicone tubing between my Perlick faucets, to make a loop through all three of my taps in order to recirculate BLC for a good 30 – 60 minutes. Works great!”

Availability of these is touch and go.  Brew Hardware gets a supply in stock and then they sell our in relatively short order.  This is usually followed by a long period of unavailability.  As of this posting, they’re back in stock and marked down to $5.99.  Update: as of this posting less than 70 are in stock.  I’m guessing these will sell out soon.  Shipping is a Flat $7.99 with a $150 order or free with a $299 order.  Check product page for current availability.

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

Draft Line Cleaning Pumps: Mark II Keg & Carboy Cleaner… As a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump | Building A Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

More: Recent Great Deals

prod:bhjumper

Ball Lock Keg QD Jumper Post [Clean Draft Lines + Draft Line Cleaning Pump Build] – $5.99

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

via Brew Hardware.  This custom fitting is designed to allow you to connect two ball lock QDs together for the purpose of cleaning your draft lines more quickly and easily.


From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

New and improved version of this fitting is much easier to connect than previous stock. We’ve moved the locking groove closer to the ends so the poppet in your QD doesn’t have to compress as much.

Maybe this is a strange idea but that’s how we roll. This custom made fitting allows you to connect a liquid or gas ball lock coupler/disconnect to both sides. It’s made so that the poppet is depressed to get full flow through both lines. Why?
If you’ve got a multiple faucet kegerator, you’re probably used to cleaning your lines one tap at a time. There are a lot of different ways to run cleaner through the lines whether it be pumping, or maybe even dispensing BLC or other cleaners through by pressurizing a spare keg. The BEST way to clean lines is to use a pump because cleaner in motion works better than static. Here’s how we do it. We use a chugger pump fed from a spare pot or cooler and the output of the pump goes into the first faucet (simply clamp the hose on to the nozzle). The serving line goes to this ball lock jumper fitting, then into the serving line of the next faucet. On the outside of this faucet you can either run it back into your cleaner reservoir or continue to daisy chain to as many faucets as you have. Please note that if you have the faucet style where the piston sticks out of the front of the faucet, you can’t do this because it will leak at that spot.

The beauty of this method is that you don’t have to take your disconnects off the lines or take them apart for cleaning. The cleaner goes through everything. You can also use it with only one QD attached which would then just hold the poppet open for you.

This item is JUST the doubled ended jumper post fitting with two included ORINGS as seen in the picture (may be red or black). We only show the ball lock QD in the second picture to show application at a glance.”


HBF Reader [8 Ways to Connect with HBF] Josh Says: “I use two of these, along with my Mark II Keg Washer, and silicone tubing between my Perlick faucets, to make a loop through all three of my taps in order to recirculate BLC for a good 30 – 60 minutes. Works great!”

Availability of these is touch and go.  Brew Hardware gets a supply in stock and then they sell our in relatively short order.  This is usually followed by a long period of unavailability.  As of this posting, they’re in stock and marked down to $5.99  Shipping is a Flat $7.99 with a $150 order or free with a $299 order.  Check product page for current availability.

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

Draft Line Cleaning Pumps: Mark II Keg & Carboy Cleaner… As a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump | Building A Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

More: Recent Great Deals

prod:bhjumper

The SpinCycle Overboard from Brew Hardware – NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return – from $18

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

SpinCycle Overboard NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return  from Brew Hardware

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Brewers that use immersion chillers and also own a pump should know that recirculating the wort back into the kettle to whirlpool the wort makes for much faster cooling and will also make a concentrated pile of trub and hop particles in the center of the kettle bottom.

This is our third version of the industry leading whirpooling hardware. The original SpinCycle and SpinCycle Submerge both require a hole to be drilled into your kettle. Some people drill holes without a second thought but this one is for people who can’t or do not want to modify their kettle.

We’ve built this unit one at a time on a customer request basis for years but we’ve finally bulk manufactured them to be able to get them out faster. It starts with a length of 1/2″ OD 304 polished SS tubing that bends up and over the kettle wall, then drops straight down through a heavy duty spring clamp. Finally the bottom is bent 90 degrees to kick the output to your sidewall and make the liquid spin.

You have your choice of how the flow gets in to the unit. The cheap way is to select “open tube on the end” and then just clamp your hose over it. The more realistic option is to select “Silver soldered male Camlock” if you use camlock quick disconnects in your system. Note that in this particular case, the cam is TIG welded at our factory even though the option says “silver soldered”. This is the version shown in the main picture.

The other choice is what the maximum drop is from the top of the pot to the output tube. To be clear, these are the lengths when the tubing is slid as far down in the clamp as possible. You can easily shorten the depth by taking pressure off the spring clamp and sliding the tubing up.


 

  • This starts at just $18, depending on which version you choose.
  • Availability is a real issue with this.  Typically when it’s available, it sells out quickly.
  • As of this posting, it’s back in stock!  Check the product page to see if you can still get in on this.
  • Is it out of stock again?  We keeping a close eye on this.  Connect with HBF to stay in the loop!  We’ll let you know when it’s available again.

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

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