Category Archives: Brew Hardware

Brew Hardware Covid-19 Update

As of this posting, Brew Hardware’s retail operation is closed, but they are still fulfilling orders.  Check site for current information.

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Back In Stock… Brew Hardware – The Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

From Brew Hardware: “If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer.”

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

There are very few discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions.

What you get:
This simple but effective kit includes a 1 gallon expandable bladder connected to a tee. The tee is pressed into a hole in a drilled stopper, grommet or carboy cap (you provide) and the top of the tee connects to an included hose that is dangled into a container of starsan solution (you provide). We include 4 feet of tubing which can be cut as necessary. We also include a hose barb splice fitting that you can insert into the stopper in order to get the tee further away from your fermenter if necessary.

How it works:
As your wort ferments, the CO2 inflates the bag full, then excess pressure is vented through the blowoff tube and bubbles through the starsan in your catch container. If yeast and trub is blown through the assembly, it will collect in the starsan container as with any other blowoff setup. If any debris makes it into the bladder, which is unlikely, it can easy be cleaned out by removing the cap from the bladder.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate about a 3rd of the way for 5 gallon batches and half way for 10 gallon batches. No starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

The barbs on the tee that insert into your fermenter are 3/8″ OD. These will fit typical openings designed for airlocks including bucket lid grommets, the larger nipple on a carboy cap, and drilled rubber stoppers.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
Wow. Most people immediately understand the lapse of judgement here. There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization.

 

Availability of this is touch and go at best.  It has been out of stock for months on end in the past.  As of this posting, it’s available again.  Stock is limited. If you’re interested in this, I’d suggest purchasing sooner rather than later.

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Related: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation & Best Sellers in Lab Erlenmeyers – via Amazon | StirStarter Stir Plate | Yeast Starters and Fermentation Resource Page

More: Recent Great Deals

Announcing: Tri-Clamp Lever Style Sample Valve from Brew Hardware

1.5" TC SANITARY LEVER STYLE SAMPLE VALVE

1.5″ TC SANITARY LEVER STYLE SAMPLE VALVE via Brew Hardware.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

This is our favorite style of sample valve for fermenters with 1.5″ TC ports. The main difference between all the designs is how the valve actually holds back the liquids. Most of them use a screw knob that pushes a seal against a seat or gasket. Eventually that gasket gets nicked, cracked or otherwise damaged and you find out you have a leak with a full batch of beer fermenting behind it.

This particular style is more like a ball valve with a few interesting differences. Instead of a ball in between two seals, the “ball” is a tapered cone that requires no seals. Tension on the cone is adjustable with locking nut that holds the valve together. You can, and should, break the valve down to its few components in between fermentations to soak in starsan by removing that single locknut.

The other great feature of this unit is that it accepts a clamp-on dispensing coil. These coils have a lot of names; Sample Coil, Pig Tail, Proof Coil. Whatever the name, if your beer is carbonated in a Unitank or Brite Tank, you can’t simply open up the sample valve or you’ll have a cup (or face) full of foam. The Pig Tail Proof Sample Coil is available separately.

Don’t forget that 1.5″ TC flanges measure an actual 2″. Material is 304 Stainless steel.


 

1.5″ TC SANITARY LEVER STYLE SAMPLE VALVE

More Tri-Clover/Tri-Clamp: Brewers Hardware has a gigantic selection of Tri-Clover Compatible Fittings including some really unique offerings  | Tri-Clamp Fittings at Proflow Dynamics

More: Recent Great Deals

Brew Hardware 10 Gallon Cooler to Mash Tun Conversion Kit – $68 + Hands on Review

cooler conversion kit

This Brew Hardware Mash Tun Conversion Kit includes everything you need to convert a 10 gallon Igloo or Home Depot Rubbermaid Cooler to a Mash Tun.  Note that it does not includes a cooler.

This kit includes:

  • 12″ stainless steel domed false bottom with upgraded large ID connection elbow
  • One piece (Brew Hardware custom designed) machined bulkhead with interior barb
  • 2 piece stainless ball valve – can be upgraded to 3 piece
  • Required length of high temp silicone tubing
  • Does not include cooler or barb/camlock.  Barb and camlock fitting options are available under accessories on the right side of the screen.

from Brew Hardware: “What makes our kit different than the competition? Ugh, now we have to brag just a little. The bulkhead we include in this kit is custom machined out of hex bar stock to our exact specifications making it extremely simple to install and leak free from day one. It’s not a bunch of off the shelf parts made with half a roll of teflon tape. We also use a high flow elbow connector at the false bottom which also features a custom made smooth bore retainer. Long story short, we’ve held off on offering cooler false bottom kits for a long time until we had all the high end components described here.” [full product description]

Options are available both for an Igloo 10 gallon cooler and for Home Depot’s 10 gallon cooler.   A complete converted option is also available.  That includes the cooler along with your choice of connection fittings.  In my experience it’s cheaper to grab the conversion kit from Brew Hardware and source the cooler separately.  See some links to compatible coolers below.

This is the conversion kit I use and it’s… awesome.   tn_img_0322-300x225Check out my Hands on Review.

  • This sold out not too long after we last featured it.
  • As of this posting a limited number are back in stock at $68.
  • Pricing and, especially, availability can vary.  Check Brew Hardware for current, description, price and availability.

COOLER TO MASH TUN CONVERSION KIT


Related:

Recent Great Deals [view more]:

rp:bhconversion

Brew Hardware – the Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff – $7.99

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

From Brew Hardware: “If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer.”

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

There are very few discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions.

What you get:
This simple but effective kit includes a 1 gallon expandable bladder connected to a tee. The tee is pressed into a hole in a drilled stopper, grommet or carboy cap (you provide) and the top of the tee connects to an included hose that is dangled into a container of starsan solution (you provide). We include 4 feet of tubing which can be cut as necessary. We also include a hose barb splice fitting that you can insert into the stopper in order to get the tee further away from your fermenter if necessary.

How it works:
As your wort ferments, the CO2 inflates the bag full, then excess pressure is vented through the blowoff tube and bubbles through the starsan in your catch container. If yeast and trub is blown through the assembly, it will collect in the starsan container as with any other blowoff setup. If any debris makes it into the bladder, which is unlikely, it can easy be cleaned out by removing the cap from the bladder.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate about a 3rd of the way for 5 gallon batches and half way for 10 gallon batches. No starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

The barbs on the tee that insert into your fermenter are 3/8″ OD. These will fit typical openings designed for airlocks including bucket lid grommets, the larger nipple on a carboy cap, and drilled rubber stoppers.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
Wow. Most people immediately understand the lapse of judgement here. There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization.

 

This has been out of stock for a long time.  months and months.  As of this posting it’s available again and on sale for just $7.99.  If you’re interested in this, I’d suggest purchasing sooner rather than later.

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

UPDATE: And… sold out.  This sold out in short order…  We’re keeping a close eye on this product.  Connect With HBF and we’ll let you know the next time it’s available.

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Related: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation & Best Sellers in Lab Erlenmeyers – via Amazon | StirStarter Stir Plate | Yeast Starters and Fermentation Resource Page

More: Recent Great Deals

Brew Hardware – the Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

From Brew Hardware: “If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer.”

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

There are very few discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions.

What you get:
This simple but effective kit includes a 1 gallon expandable bladder connected to a tee. The tee is pressed into a hole in a drilled stopper, grommet or carboy cap (you provide) and the top of the tee connects to an included hose that is dangled into a container of starsan solution (you provide). We include 4 feet of tubing which can be cut as necessary. We also include a hose barb splice fitting that you can insert into the stopper in order to get the tee further away from your fermenter if necessary.

How it works:
As your wort ferments, the CO2 inflates the bag full, then excess pressure is vented through the blowoff tube and bubbles through the starsan in your catch container. If yeast and trub is blown through the assembly, it will collect in the starsan container as with any other blowoff setup. If any debris makes it into the bladder, which is unlikely, it can easy be cleaned out by removing the cap from the bladder.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate about a 3rd of the way for 5 gallon batches and half way for 10 gallon batches. No starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

The barbs on the tee that insert into your fermenter are 3/8″ OD. These will fit typical openings designed for airlocks including bucket lid grommets, the larger nipple on a carboy cap, and drilled rubber stoppers.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
Wow. Most people immediately understand the lapse of judgement here. There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization.

 

This has been out of stock for a long time.  months and months.  As of this posting it’s available again and on sale for just $7.99.  If you’re interested in this, I’d suggest purchasing sooner rather than later.

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

UPDATE: And… sold out.  This sold out in short order…  We’re keeping a close eye on this product.  Connect With HBF and we’ll let you know the next time it’s available.

Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

Related: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation & Best Sellers in Lab Erlenmeyers – via Amazon | StirStarter Stir Plate | Yeast Starters and Fermentation Resource Page

More: Recent Great Deals

Fermentation Heat Wrap… $16 at Brew Hardware + Inkbird Hands on Review

FERMENTATION HEAT WRAP

About via Brew Hardware… “This simple heating wrap has a lot of surface area for nice even heat around any carboy or bucket. Wrap it around and secure with either tape or a large rubberband/bungie cord. This unit does NOT have a built in thermostat so you will need to use a controller of some sort such as the STC-1000, Johnson A419, or the new Inkbird controller that we offer.” [keep reading]

As of this posting, this is marked down to just $16.  Shipping is a Flat $7.99 with a $150 order or free with a $299 order.  Check the product page for current price and availability.

FERMENTATION HEAT WRAP

Also Consider: Inkbird Dual Stage Temp Controller

More: Recent Great Deals


Inkbird ITC-308 – Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller | Review | Inkbird Deals

rp:bhhw

Custom Stainless Steel Tubing – choose diameter, lengths, bend angles, multiple bends

Customized stainless steel tubing created just for you to your specifications from Brew Hardware for your brew system, brew stand and more.

From Brew Hardware: “We get calls every day to create pieces of stainless tubing with certain dimensions and bends. Until now, everything had to be quoted case by case. We hope this configuration tool helps automate the process a bit. First, we have 304 welded tubing in sizes ranging from 1/4″ OD all the way up to 5/8″ OD and we have the ability make clean bends up to 180 degrees.”

Prices vary based on the options you choose.  Check out Brew Hardware for options and explanations on how to enter your order.

CUSTOM STAINLESS TUBING WITH OPTIONAL BENDS

More: Recent Great Deals

rp:customsstubing

Convert Blichmann BrewCommander to Wall Mount – $25 + BrewCommander Hands on Review

Looking to get a wall Mount Blichmann Brew Commander?  Brew Hardware has you covered.  As of this posting, they will do the conversion for $25.  Check Brew Hardware for current pricing and availability.

Brew Commander at Brew Hardware

Check out Hands on Review of the Brew Commander: Hands on Review: Blichmann BrewCommander Controller

More: Recent Great Deals

rp:wmbc

The SpinCycle Overboard from Brew Hardware – NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return – $15

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

SpinCycle Overboard NO DRILL Kettle Whirlpool Return  from Brew Hardware


From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Brewers that use immersion chillers and also own a pump should know that recirculating the wort back into the kettle to whirlpool the wort makes for much faster cooling and will also make a concentrated pile of trub and hop particles in the center of the kettle bottom.

This is our third version of the industry leading whirpooling hardware. The original SpinCycle and SpinCycle Submerge both require a hole to be drilled into your kettle. Some people drill holes without a second thought but this one is for people who can’t or do not want to modify their kettle.

We’ve built this unit one at a time on a customer request basis for years but we’ve finally bulk manufactured them to be able to get them out faster. It starts with a length of 1/2″ OD 304 polished SS tubing that bends up and over the kettle wall, then drops straight down through a heavy duty spring clamp. Finally the bottom is bent 90 degrees to kick the output to your sidewall and make the liquid spin.

You have your choice of how the flow gets in to the unit. The cheap way is to select “open tube on the end” and then just clamp your hose over it. The more realistic option is to select “Silver soldered male Camlock” if you use camlock quick disconnects in your system. Note that in this particular case, the cam is TIG welded at our factory even though the option says “silver soldered”. This is the version shown in the main picture.

The other choice is what the maximum drop is from the top of the pot to the output tube. To be clear, these are the lengths when the tubing is slid as far down in the clamp as possible. You can easily shorten the depth by taking pressure off the spring clamp and sliding the tubing up.


This is selling for just $15. Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

SPINCYCLE OVERBOARD, NO-DRILL KETTLE WHIRLPOOL RETURN

Also

More: Recent Great Deals

pst:spincycle