Category Archives: Reader Projects

Reader Photo: Stainless Table as a DIY Brew Stand


Thanks to HBF Reader Rob for the photo and project idea!  [8 Ways to Connect with HBF]

From Rob… “Here is a picture of my mobile brewery setup using the Trinity Stainless table. I made a few mods for stability, but it works better than I expected. First mod, I cut the table legs shorter and second mod is I purchased some heavy duty casters for stability so I could easily move it loaded up with my mash and sparge water. I used the casters that came with for a couple of brews, but loaded up it was unstable enough for me to decide to change them. I can get everything setup the night before in the garage, roll it out in the morning and brew outside. My setup is with 10 Gal kettles for 5 gal batches and it works awesome. It would be a bit tight with larger kettles and add more weight.”

I have the non-wheeled version of this table and it’s great.  I use it for my brew area work table.  SeeTRINITY EcoStorage NSF Stainless Steel Table, 48-Inch [Hands on Review]

TRINITY EcoStorage NSF Stainless Steel Table with Wheels, 48-Inch

Note that Rob’s DIY project involved modifying this table to make a brewing setup.  That is outside of what I would call a typical use for a table like this.  Always use caution when fire, heat, propane, boiling liquids are involved.

Ready Made Brew Stands… MoreBeer BrewSculptures | Ruby Street Brewing SystemsBlichmann TopTier Brew Stand | Blichmann BrewEasy Systems

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Reader Tip: Alternate Fitting for Spunding Valve Build

Thanks to HBF Reader Daniel for this tip!  [8 Ways to Connect with HBF]

Camco 59953 Propane Fitting - 1/4" Male NPT x 1/4" Female Inverted Flare

Camco 59953 Propane Fitting – 1/4″ Male NPT x 1/4″ Female Inverted Flare by Camco

A cln_tn_spundingSpunding Valve allows you to ferment under pressure, naturally and precisely carbonate in the keg, fix over-carbonated beers and more. See: [Build a Spunding Valve]

This is a brass fitting that Daniel proposes as an alternative to this fitting featured in my Spunding Valve Build.

From Daniel: “The flare end is inverted, meaning it won’t fit directly on the gas QD. I was easily able to drill out the inversion and turn this into a “normal” female flare fitting. Now my spunding valve is fully brass/stainless.”

Note that you have to modify this fitting for it to work in my build.  Daniel says to use a 3/8″ Drill bit… “The 3/8 bit is small enough to fit in the female flare portion of the fitting and almost fully fill the space. This ensures the drill will take out the inverted flaring exactly in the center. As opposed to a tad off center which might mess up the final fit.”

Photos [click to zoom] of Daniel’s finished build…



Camco 59953 Propane Fitting – 1/4″ Male NPT x 1/4″ Female Inverted Flare

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Build a Spunding Valve – Step by Step

Reader Tip: Using the Grainfather to Clean Draft Lines + Save $91

Thanks to Twitter Follower Andy for this tip!  [Connect with HBF on Twitter]

The Grainfather

The Grainfather is an electric all grain brewing system.  Mash temperature is precisely controlled with an electric heating element.  A pump recirculates throughout the mashing process ensuring even temperatures.  At the end of the mash, The Grainfather becomes your electric brew kettle.  The Grainfather includes a counterflow chiller.  8 Gallon system for indoor or outdoor brewing.

Adventures in Homebrewing has the Grainfather on sale for $799.  That’s a $91 Savings.  You’ll also get the equivalent of 5% back via AIH’s Rewards Program

The Grainfather$890 $799 + Rewards

HBF Reader Andy has converted this for use as a draft line cleaning pump using a few fittings from Brew Hardware including…

Check out Andy’s Youtube video detailing the project

Also Consider…

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Guest Post: Toasting your own Wood Chips by Matt Del Fiacco

Special Thanks to Matt Del Fiacco for this special Guest Post!  Find a link to Matt’s website at the end of this article.

Home Toasting DIY Wood Homebrewing

Toasting your own Wood Chips

by Matt Del Fiacco

Like many new brewers, when I first started brewing I was eager to find interesting ingredients I could use, from Sriracha (bad idea) to vanilla beans (used 2 beans per gallon, terrible plan). Around this time, I tried my first bourbon-barrel stout, and feel in love with the wood characters of the beer. Wood-aged beer quickly became a passion, but the desire to experiment was still there. I noticed early on that at my local homebrew shop, all of my options were Oak of some kind, but what about Maple? What about Mesquite?

This article is about toasting your own wood so you can use it in your homebrew, no matter the source or the type. Not all wood is suitable for brewing (soft-woods, chemically treated wood, etc.), so be sure to do your research. For this article, let’s stick to commercially available smoking-wood, which is often untreated and is safe for use in cooking. In addition, this article is about chips primarily, simply because (as smoking chips) they are widely commercially available.

The point of this short article isn’t to be comprehensive or absolute, but to help you get started on dialing in your wood additions so you can adjust to your system and palate. I’m happy to hear any criticisms or ideas you may have!

Toasts of Wood
Before we go into the different types of woods, their toasts, and the flavors that can develop, we need to understand the varying toasts of wood and how toasting temperatures develop different characteristics.

Light toasts are typically toasted at a low temperature for a longer period of time. This breaks down tannins and hemicellulose, and facilitates the formation of vanillin, the chemical compound from lignin that is responsible for the vanilla flavors and aroma. Typically, smoky flavors are not present in light toasts, and wood flavors, along with vanilla, are prevalent.

Medium toasts are toasted at a moderate temperature for a long period of time, which avoids harshly charring the wood and focuses primarily on the breakdown of hemicellulose, resulting in the carmelization of sugars. This toast produces toasty, sweet, caramel, and maple flavors with hints of vanilla.

Heavy toasts are often the result of a two-step process. First, the wood is heated briefly at a high temperature, resulting in a strong surface toast that will impart smoky flavors. After that, there is often a medium toast for a slightly longer period of time which creates a deeper toast, penetrating the wood more fully and allowing for more complex flavors to develop. Some vanilla flavors may be present but the flavor and aroma are typically dominated by smoky, roasty, coffee like flavors balanced with notes similar to those present in a medium toast.

World Cooperage Wood Toast

This diagram was created by World Cooperage as a visual way of explaining heat’s effects on wood, in this case American Oak, and the characteristics that develop at various temperatures. The actual temperatures for (and presence of) particular flavors will vary depending on the levels of cellulose, hemicellulose, tannins, and lignin in the wood, so this chart won’t be across the board correct. However, the chart is a good rule of thumb and illustrates the temperature’s influence on wood well.

Different Types of Wood
Now that we know what characteristics can develop at certain temperatures, let’s look at the different woods and the different characters between them. Personally, I only have experience with Oak, Cherry, and Hard Maple, but this article from the September/October 2012 issue of Zymurgy[1] contains an article noting the specific tastes of particular woods in a blonde ale, and their experiences are consistent with my own.

Cherry: Dried cherry, earthy, additional sweetness in finish, light vanilla, fried bread. Phenols muted, alcohol persists, slight tannic astringency.

Hickory: Light woodsy character, light hay-like aroma, slight honey-sweetness. Phenols not muted, slight tannic astringency, alcohol softened.

Hard Maple: Woody aroma, maple-syrup character lingers in finish, light nutmeg. Had a thinning effect on body, alcohol subdued.

Soft Maple: Caramel, yellow cake, light pear-like esters, maple sap (rather than syrup). Phenols and alcohol only lightly subdued, thinning effect on body.

Red Oak: Red berries, woodsy, peppery, resinous. An authoritative and dominating wood. Alcohol and phenols heavily subdued slight oil contribution to mouthfeel.

White Oak: Soft esters (orange, pear), chardonnay-like, light earthy and spicy (peppery). Moderate repression of alcohol and phenolics.

White Ash: Light dried fruit (plum, pear), breadiness, lingering wood sweetness on finish. Alcohol and phenols subdued, considerable creaminess and smoothness contributed to base beer.

Yellow Birch: Toasted marshmallow, caramel, wood aromatics strongly reminiscent of base wood varietal, aroma considerately more prominent than flavor. Not effective at subduing alcohol and phenols, moderately tannic.

Using this information as a guideline, combined with the chart above, we can determine what flavors we want and estimate what temperature to toast the wood at. For example, White Ash has a lingering wood-y sweetness. In Oak, that would mean that toasting around 300° Fahrenheit would be ideal for accentuating sweetness. It’s not perfect, but it is a great place to start. Experiment, take consistent notes, and dial in the temperatures and woods you like.

Toasting the Wood
Last year, the blog Homebrew Dad ran a short contest to give away some yeast cultivated from the famous Heady Topper. The contest was to submit a creative recipe that you would use the yeast in, and I had the idea for a Cherry Wood IPA. I didn’t end up winning the contest, but I did have a recipe that I was really excited about, and so I set out to brew it anyways. It turned out well, but I learned quite a bit along the way, and so I’m going to take another shot at it.

I bought Cherry smoking-wood chips from my local Walmart after calling the company and ensuring no chemicals were added to the wood. For this recipe, I wanted hints of vanilla while complimenting the naturally sweeter, earthy characteristics of the wood, and so using the chart above as a guideline I decided to toast at about 350° Fahrenheit. Since I’m using chips, the toasting process will be fairly quick and I set a timer for one hour, checking the chips every fifteen minutes

First, I preheated the oven to my desired temperature, then covered a cookie sheet in aluminum foil. I then spread five ounces of Cherry wood evenly across the sheet. Pre-toasted, the wood looked like this:

Pre-Toasted Wood

I put the wood on the middle rack of the oven and set my timer for an hour. Less than five minutes in, the kitchen has a great wood smell which, by the thirty minute mark, developed a characteristic I can only describe as “harsh”.

After the hour was up, I had five ounces of medium-toast Cherry woodchips, which looked like this:

Home Toasting DIY Wood Homebrewing

So, the quick and dirty steps to toasting your own wood:

  1. Determine the type of wood and temperature you want.
  2. Pre-heat the oven to your desired temperature.
  3. Cover a cookie sheet in aluminum foil and then evenly spread your wood additions across the sheet.
  4. Put the wood in the oven on the middle rack.
  5. Set your timer for an hour, check on the wood every fifteen minutes or so.
  6. Take the wood out of the oven after an hour, toast longer if desired.
  7. Allow the wood to cool, and add it to your beer using your preferred method.

Preparing to add the Wood
How you add the wood to your homebrew is up to you. Personally, I prefer adding the wood straight to the beer after a ten minute boil. The boil will help fight off any chance of infection and will help reduce some of the tannic astringency that can come from the wood.

Cherry Wood IPA

Wood chips tend to be a bit one-dimensional in flavor contributions, and due to a high surface-area to volume ratio they impart their flavors fairly quickly. For a five gallon batch, I typically recommend about half an ounce of chips for one week. This is obviously very dependent on the beer’s style, the wood, the toast, and the flavors you’re looking for. For my IPA, the half-ounce for a week was more than enough to impart a strong wood-flavor to the beer, a bit of vanilla, but none of the dried earthy characters I was hoping for.

Another popular method is the use of a tincture, soaking the chips in alcohol (usually vodka or bourbon) for a few weeks to extract the flavor, and then adding that liquid at bottling, tasting as you go. This is a useful method for chips, since the flavors they impart tend to be a bit one-dimensional anyways, adding just the liquid and tasting is a good way to add a layer of flavor and aroma to your brew. If you’re looking for complexity, I would recommend using cubes and adding them as a straight addition.

None of this information is beyond question, and like I said in the introduction to the article the purpose isn’t to be definitive or absolute, only to introduce you to the variety of woods that can be used and how you can treat them yourself. Experiment and dial in your methods to your palate and system. Feel free to comment here or email me with questions, comments, or criticism, and I would love to hear about your experiences using wood!

Happy homebrewing!


Matt is a homebrewer with a passion for community, high gravities, and wood-aged beers. Check him and his other work out at his blog To Brew a Beer!

[1] Batcheller, David. “Wood’s Wild Side”. Zymurgy. American Homebrewing Association. October, 2012. Print.

Related: Oak Cubes, Chips and SpiralsBarrelsGigaYeast VT Double IPA

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STC-1000 Dual Stage Temp Controller

The STC-1000 is a very popular homebrewing temperature controller.  This is a dual stage controller.  That means it has the ability to control both a heating and cooling device.  Great for a kegerator or a fermentation chamber/deep freeze.  110 volt version, reads in deg C.

Elitech 110V All-Purpose Temperature Control Controller with Sensor 2 Relay Output Thermostat Stc-1000

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Update – Reader Tip: DIY Hop Screen


Thanks to HBF Reader Scott for this tip and picture!

From Scott: After looking at more expensive versions I made some of my own with window screen as a test. They worked but tended to collapse and were difficult to clean.  Then I found this on Amazon.  After working a hole in it large enough to push the drain tube through bingo. It’s stiff, large enough around that it won’t clog easily and it comes apart for cleaning.  Here is a photo of it installed in a 10 gal. kettle…


Jumbo Stainless Steel Locking Spice Mesh Ball, Tea Strainer, Tea Infuser, Giant Size 5.5 Inch Diameter

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Reader Tip: DIY Hop Screen


Thanks to HBF Reader Scott for this tip and picture!

From Scott: After looking at the much more expensive version I made some of my own with window screen as a test. They worked but tended to collapse and were difficult to clean.  Then I found this on Amazon.  After working a hole in it large enough to push the drain tube through bingo. It’s stiff, large enough around that it won’t clog easily and it comes apart for cleaning. Here is a photo of it installed in a 10 gal. kettle…



Jumbo Stainless Steel Locking Spice Mesh Ball, Tea Strainer, Tea Infuser, Giant Size 5.5 Inch Diameter

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