Category Archives: Brew Hardware

The Steam Slayer – from Brew Hardware – back in stock

STEAM SLAYER - KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

The Steam Slayer via Brew Hardware is designed to eliminate the need to vent steam from your brewing room.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

The Steam Slayer(tm) is a brand new product that eliminates the need to vent steam from your brewing room. More and more people are converting over to electric brewing systems allowing brewing indoors and even in quite confined spaces. The rude awakening occurs when you evaporate a gallon or more water into the air and your walls and ceiling drips with condensation. In some cases it is impossible or unreasonable to install fan-based exhaust systems to vent that steam. Enter the Steam Slayer!

Condensing boil steam is a relatively common practice in large scale industry and some breweries. Homebrewtalk.com user “Brundog” did a lot of experimentation and documentation and many folks built clone systems in turn. When it came time to install one on the shop brewing kettle, we couldn’t leave well enough alone with off the shelf parts.

How It Works:
You will install a 1.5″ TC port in the upper sidewall of your electric powered boil kettle, typically as high as you can get it without interfering with the closure of the kettle’s lid. The unit is equipped with a fine mist sprayer that fits inside the main body and is fed with cold tap water. When you reach a boil in your kettle, you will put the lid on and start the flow of cold water into the unit. Steam will enter the tee and encounter the spray turning the steam back into water. The waste water runs out the bottom of the unit into the included silicone hose which you will position over a catch bucket. Depending on your tap water pressure, and the selected sprayer option, you will typically consume 6-10 gallons of water in a 60 minute boil. This water can be discarded or saved for cleaning your equipment afterwards.

What’s Included:

  • Main Body Tee with 1.5″ TC top and side flanges and welded 5/8″ hose barb on the bottom.
  • 1.5″ TC sprayer adapter with your choice of 6 or 9 gallon per hour sprayer tip. The GPH ratings are at 40 PSI. We find the 6GPM works great on 45 PSI on a 7 gallon boil. If you have low pressure, you may need the 9GPM sprayer. If you are doing 10 or 15 gallon batches, you may need the 9 GPH. We are still trying to figure out better guidelines.
  • Right angle water shut off valve with push in connection five feet of 1/4″ poly supply line (5ft is standard, select longer runs in the dropdown selection above.
  • Water supply connection fitting with push in connection: Your choice of 3/4″ Female Garden Hose or In-Line faucet connection valve (select in the drop down above). More about this in the instructions below.
  • 3 feet of 1/2″ ID silicone hose for waste water drain. The tubing must reach from the bottom of the steam slayer body to the TOP of your catch bucket. If you need more tubing, it can be purchased by the foot and we can combine the added length onto the standard 3′ if you direct us to.
  • Hose holder clip to keep drain hose positioned at the inside top of your collection bucket.

* Note that the clamp and gasket to attach the unit to the kettle is not included, nor is the hardware to install the actual TC port in the kettle. See the list of available accessories if you need any of those parts.

Instructions:
First, keep in mind that this is a new process for small scale homebrewing and we’re all learning the best practices. When you buy this unit, consider yourself a part of a beta test. These instructions will evolve.

  1. Clamp the main unit to the existing kettle port and the sprayer TC to the top of the unit. The integrated hose barb should be facing down towards the floor.
  2. Install your water source fitting. If you selected the Garden Hose fitting, attach it to your garden hose bib, a garden hose, a slop sink faucet, or a washing machine supply port. If you selected the inline faucet supply fitting, shut off the cold water valve under your sink, remove the hose feeding your faucet and install the inline fitting. Replace the faucet hose on top and turn the water back on to check for leaks. The inline faucet fitting is shown on the right. Just below that we show where it would install under a sink or toilet.
  3. Connect the 1/4″ Poly line to your source water fitting and the shutoff valve on the top of the Steam Slayer. Making sure the ends are cut cleanly, simply push the tubing into the fittings all the way and install the C-shaped retaining clips.
  4. Install the silicone waste tubing on the unit’s barb and attach the holder clip to the end. We include a 5/8″ OD stainless steel ring that should be inserted into the end of the silicone to expand the tubing large enough to fit the holder clip tightly. The waste tubing should be trimmed so that it only extends into your catch bucket/vessel by 1-2 inches. The open end of this tubing must never be submergedor the steam slayer will not work properly.
  5. Once your boil begins, turn on the cooling water and place your kettle lid on the kettle. Since the condensing action creates a mild vacuum, the lid does not need a gasket. If you notice steam leaking out of the lid, make sure it is not warped creating extra spaces.
  6. Adjust your boil intensity to approximately HALF of what you’re used to using and plan for about half as much boil off. For a typical example, we used to run our 5500 watt element at 65% when the kettle is full of 7 gallons and the lid off. We experienced 1.5 gallons per hour of boil off. With the Steam Slayer installed, we run at 32% and experience .75 gallons of boil off per hour. In other words, to use the Steam Slayer, your electric kettle must be equipped with a power controller.

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Can I go through the lid?

Yes. In order to through the lid, you will need to install a 1.5″ TC port towards the edge and then clamp on a 1.5″ TC 90 degree elbow. From there the Steam Slayer gets clamped on as noted above. You may need to place a counterweight on top of the lid, opposite the TC port to keep it firmly seated on the kettle.

2. I use the BIAB method and I’m concerned that a side mount TC port will reduce my kettle capacity.

You can put a TC blank cover over the port during the mash and then fit the Steam Slayer after you pull the grain bag.

3. How do I run the hot waste water directly to a plumbing drain.

We don’t know for sure. We do know that you want the water to freely drain out. Even in cases where the output hose bends into a loop where water collects in the hose is enough to stop the vacuum on the kettle. You may get steam to escape via the lid if there is any back pressure on the drain hose. If your sewer pipe is well below your brewing location, you can run a horizontal drain line over to the kettle, install a P-trap and then end in an oversized vertical entrance pipe. Treat this like the catch bucket and run the silicone drain hose to it using the holder clip to hold it to the upper lip of the pipe.

About, from Brew Hardware: “Sometimes we have a grand plan for a given fitting. This time we’re just spit balling to see what sticks. We took the profile of a ball lock keg post and replaced the poppit and spring with just two large bored out holes. The other end is a generous 3/8″ OD hose barb that will work with 3/8′ ID silicone, 5/16″ Racking tubing, or whatever.”

 

We posted about this a while back and it quickly sold out.  It’s available again as of this posting.  Check the product page for current availability.

 

STEAM SLAYER – KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

More: Recent Great Deals

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

Announcing: The Steam Slayer – from Brew Hardware

STEAM SLAYER - KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

The Steam Slayer via Brew Hardware is designed to eliminate the need to vent steam from your brewing room.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

The Steam Slayer(tm) is a brand new product that eliminates the need to vent steam from your brewing room. More and more people are converting over to electric brewing systems allowing brewing indoors and even in quite confined spaces. The rude awakening occurs when you evaporate a gallon or more water into the air and your walls and ceiling drips with condensation. In some cases it is impossible or unreasonable to install fan-based exhaust systems to vent that steam. Enter the Steam Slayer!

Condensing boil steam is a relatively common practice in large scale industry and some breweries. Homebrewtalk.com user “Brundog” did a lot of experimentation and documentation and many folks built clone systems in turn. When it came time to install one on the shop brewing kettle, we couldn’t leave well enough alone with off the shelf parts.

How It Works:
You will install a 1.5″ TC port in the upper sidewall of your electric powered boil kettle, typically as high as you can get it without interfering with the closure of the kettle’s lid. The unit is equipped with a fine mist sprayer that fits inside the main body and is fed with cold tap water. When you reach a boil in your kettle, you will put the lid on and start the flow of cold water into the unit. Steam will enter the tee and encounter the spray turning the steam back into water. The waste water runs out the bottom of the unit into the included silicone hose which you will position over a catch bucket. Depending on your tap water pressure, and the selected sprayer option, you will typically consume 6-10 gallons of water in a 60 minute boil. This water can be discarded or saved for cleaning your equipment afterwards.

What’s Included:

  • Main Body Tee with 1.5″ TC top and side flanges and welded 5/8″ hose barb on the bottom.
  • 1.5″ TC sprayer adapter with your choice of 6 or 9 gallon per hour sprayer tip. The GPH ratings are at 40 PSI. We find the 6GPM works great on 45 PSI on a 7 gallon boil. If you have low pressure, you may need the 9GPM sprayer. If you are doing 10 or 15 gallon batches, you may need the 9 GPH. We are still trying to figure out better guidelines.
  • Right angle water shut off valve with push in connection five feet of 1/4″ poly supply line (5ft is standard, select longer runs in the dropdown selection above.
  • Water supply connection fitting with push in connection: Your choice of 3/4″ Female Garden Hose or In-Line faucet connection valve (select in the drop down above). More about this in the instructions below.
  • 3 feet of 1/2″ ID silicone hose for waste water drain. The tubing must reach from the bottom of the steam slayer body to the TOP of your catch bucket. If you need more tubing, it can be purchased by the foot and we can combine the added length onto the standard 3′ if you direct us to.
  • Hose holder clip to keep drain hose positioned at the inside top of your collection bucket.

* Note that the clamp and gasket to attach the unit to the kettle is not included, nor is the hardware to install the actual TC port in the kettle. See the list of available accessories if you need any of those parts.

Instructions:
First, keep in mind that this is a new process for small scale homebrewing and we’re all learning the best practices. When you buy this unit, consider yourself a part of a beta test. These instructions will evolve.

  1. Clamp the main unit to the existing kettle port and the sprayer TC to the top of the unit. The integrated hose barb should be facing down towards the floor.
  2. Install your water source fitting. If you selected the Garden Hose fitting, attach it to your garden hose bib, a garden hose, a slop sink faucet, or a washing machine supply port. If you selected the inline faucet supply fitting, shut off the cold water valve under your sink, remove the hose feeding your faucet and install the inline fitting. Replace the faucet hose on top and turn the water back on to check for leaks. The inline faucet fitting is shown on the right. Just below that we show where it would install under a sink or toilet.
  3. Connect the 1/4″ Poly line to your source water fitting and the shutoff valve on the top of the Steam Slayer. Making sure the ends are cut cleanly, simply push the tubing into the fittings all the way and install the C-shaped retaining clips.
  4. Install the silicone waste tubing on the unit’s barb and attach the holder clip to the end. We include a 5/8″ OD stainless steel ring that should be inserted into the end of the silicone to expand the tubing large enough to fit the holder clip tightly. The waste tubing should be trimmed so that it only extends into your catch bucket/vessel by 1-2 inches. The open end of this tubing must never be submergedor the steam slayer will not work properly.
  5. Once your boil begins, turn on the cooling water and place your kettle lid on the kettle. Since the condensing action creates a mild vacuum, the lid does not need a gasket. If you notice steam leaking out of the lid, make sure it is not warped creating extra spaces.
  6. Adjust your boil intensity to approximately HALF of what you’re used to using and plan for about half as much boil off. For a typical example, we used to run our 5500 watt element at 65% when the kettle is full of 7 gallons and the lid off. We experienced 1.5 gallons per hour of boil off. With the Steam Slayer installed, we run at 32% and experience .75 gallons of boil off per hour. In other words, to use the Steam Slayer, your electric kettle must be equipped with a power controller.

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Can I go through the lid?

Yes. In order to through the lid, you will need to install a 1.5″ TC port towards the edge and then clamp on a 1.5″ TC 90 degree elbow. From there the Steam Slayer gets clamped on as noted above. You may need to place a counterweight on top of the lid, opposite the TC port to keep it firmly seated on the kettle.

2. I use the BIAB method and I’m concerned that a side mount TC port will reduce my kettle capacity.

You can put a TC blank cover over the port during the mash and then fit the Steam Slayer after you pull the grain bag.

3. How do I run the hot waste water directly to a plumbing drain.

We don’t know for sure. We do know that you want the water to freely drain out. Even in cases where the output hose bends into a loop where water collects in the hose is enough to stop the vacuum on the kettle. You may get steam to escape via the lid if there is any back pressure on the drain hose. If your sewer pipe is well below your brewing location, you can run a horizontal drain line over to the kettle, install a P-trap and then end in an oversized vertical entrance pipe. Treat this like the catch bucket and run the silicone drain hose to it using the holder clip to hold it to the upper lip of the pipe.

About, from Brew Hardware: “Sometimes we have a grand plan for a given fitting. This time we’re just spit balling to see what sticks. We took the profile of a ball lock keg post and replaced the poppit and spring with just two large bored out holes. The other end is a generous 3/8″ OD hose barb that will work with 3/8′ ID silicone, 5/16″ Racking tubing, or whatever.”

 

STEAM SLAYER – KETTLE BOIL STEAM CONDENSER ASSEMBLY

More: Recent Great Deals

Make sure the components you use are compatible and rated for your intended application.  Contact manufacturer with questions about suitability or a specific application.  Always read and follow manufacturer directions.

New from Brew Hardware: Ball Lock Post – to Hose Barb, NPT or QD

BALL LOCK KEG QD POST (FREE FLOWING) TO 3/8" HOSE BARB

via Brew Hardware.  About, from Brew Hardware: “Sometimes we have a grand plan for a given fitting. This time we’re just spit balling to see what sticks. We took the profile of a ball lock keg post and replaced the poppit and spring with just two large bored out holes. The other end is a generous 3/8″ OD hose barb that will work with 3/8′ ID silicone, 5/16″ Racking tubing, or whatever.”

BALL LOCK KEG QD POST (FREE FLOWING) TO 3/8″ HOSE BARB

More Options: If you look on the Kegging Parts page, there are other options as well – ball lock post to – different size barbs, NPT threads, and stainless QD.

Also at Brew Hardware: BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

Draft Line Cleaning Pumps: Mark II Keg & Carboy Cleaner… As a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump | Building A Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

 

More: Recent Great Deals

Back In Stock: Ready Made Hot Rod Heat Stick from Brew Hardware – 1,500 Watts (or more)

Ready to use Hot Rod Heat Stick via Brew Hardware.

More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

You can buy this as a bare-bones kit elsewhere on the site and add whatever wire length and element you want. This particular item is a ready to plug in heat source that is fully prewired for you with the features most commonly requested.

It includes the bare bones hotrod hardware, an element (choice in dropdown), 12 feet of 12/3 SJEOOW cable, and a plug (choice in dropdown).

*Please note that if you plan to use a temperature controller of any kind that will interrupt power to the hot rod, you MUST wire in your controller between the GFCI plug and the hot rod itself. You may not interrupt power BEFORE the GFCI plug because it is designed to trip upon power failure. If you want to plug this hot rod into a controller, you should order the one with the plain 5-15P plug on it and just make sure that you have GFCI protection upstream of the controller.

If you would like to add additional footage of the 12/3 cable, add it as a separate line item and note in comments to add that additional length to the hotrod.

Options:

  1. Vertical conduit bend options: Left straight, you get about 28″ of overall height. This option only needs to used if you have a very deep pot. The most common option is the 90 degree bend. This allows for less strain on the cord but the max pot depth (if you want it to nearly sit on the bottom) is 23″. Finally, if your pot is only about 19″ tall, you can opt for the 170 degree bend which will loop you over the pot wall like a Sheppard’s hook and make the wire drop straight down. If you are using this in addition to a flame under your pot, the 90 degree bend gives you the best clearance to keep the wire away.
  2. Plug type: Standard plug is just a 15 amp 3-prong plug that will fit any standard outlet. If you choose this option, we HIGHLY recommend that you confirm that the outlet you will use regularly is GFCI protected (the ones with the test/reset buttons). The other option is to have us equip the hotrod with a GFCI protected plug. This will protect you from potential shock regardless of the outlet type you plug into.
  3. Element wattage. You have a choice between a LWD 1500 watt or an ULWD 1650 watt element. The 1650 has a slightly less chance of scorching wort while putting out 10% more power. Both will run on 120v 15 amps.

The minimum pot width for this unit is 11.5″. It WILL fit the Grainfather, Mash N Boil, etc

GRAINFATHER, Mash N Boil, Robobrew USER FAQ:

1. Have you heard of anyone using this on a grainfather?
Grainfather users are my top customer base for the hot rod. The 90 degree bend works great.
2. How do I add additional length to the cable when ordering?
If you get the Ready to Use unit with the 1500 watt element, the way to add more length to the cord is to add item Cable12 to the cart with the number of feet to add on.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cable12.htm… It’s $1.35 a foot.

3. How much faster will the water heat?
The stock 1600watt heater in the GF takes 60 minutes to take 7 gallons of water from 70f to 158F. With the addition of the 1500 watt HR, it will reduce it to 30 minutes.
Similarly, when you pull the grain and start ramping to a boil, the ramp will take 18 minutes instead of 35.
4. How do I control the boil?
Once you hit boil, instead of running on 1600, it’s best to let the hotrod run at 1500 watts and then switch the GF into mash mode which only adds 500 watts but the combined 2000 is about right for a decent rolling boil.

 

Availability of this can be touch and go. Check the product page for up to the minute price and availability.

From Brew Hardware: “Regular Hot Rods, Camlock Jumpers, and Weldless TC are back in stock and will begin shipping Monday 11/26.”

HOTROD HEAT STICK, READY TO USE, 1500 WATTS WITH GFCI (HOT ROD)

Other versions are available.  Search “Hot Rod” on Brew Hardware

More: Recent Great Deals

prod:bhhotrod

Ball Lock Keg QD Jumper Post – Clean Draft Lines – $5.99

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

via Brew Hardware.  This custom fitting is designed to allow you to connect two ball lock QDs together for the purpose of cleaning your draft lines more quickly and easily.

About this fitting

from Brew Hardware: “Maybe this is a strange idea but that’s how we roll. This custom made fitting allows you to connect a liquid ball lock coupler/disconnect to both sides. It’s made so that the poppet is depressed to get full flow through both lines. Why?
If you’ve got a multiple faucet kegerator, you’re probably used to cleaning your lines one tap at a time. There are a lot of different ways to run cleaner through the lines whether it be pumping, or maybe even dispensing BLC or other cleaners through by pressurizing a spare keg. The BEST way to clean lines is to use a pump because cleaner in motion works better than static. Here’s how we do it. We use a chugger pump fed from a spare pot or cooler and the output of the pump goes into the first faucet (simply clamp the hose on to the nozzle). The serving line goes to this ball lock jumper fitting, then into the serving line of the next faucet. On the outside of this faucet you can either run it back into your cleaner reservoir or continue to daisy chain to as many faucets as you have. Please note that if you have the faucet style where the piston sticks out of the front of the faucet, you can’t do this because it will leak at that spot.

The beauty of this method is that you don’t have to take your disconnects off the lines or take them apart for cleaning. The cleaner goes through everything. You can also use it with only one QD attached which would then just hold the poppet open for you.

This item is JUST the doubled ended jumper post fitting with two included ORINGS as seen in the picture (may be red or black). We only show the ball lock QD in the second picture to show applicaton at a glance.”

 

HBF Reader [8 Ways to Connect with HBF] Josh Says: “I use two of these, along with my Mark II Keg Washer, and silicone tubing between my Perlick faucets, to make a loop through all three of my taps in order to recirculate BLC for a good 30 – 60 minutes. Works great!”

Availability of these is touch and go.  As of this posting, they’re in stock and marked down to $5.99  Shipping is a Flat $7.99 with a $150 order or free with a $299 order.  Check product page for current availability.

BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

Draft Line Cleaning Pumps: Mark II Keg & Carboy Cleaner… As a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump | Building A Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump

Also: Kegerator Tips & Gear | Keg Repair Part #s | Recent Keg Finds

Our Top Draft Resources

 

More: Recent Great Deals

prod:bhjumper

3/16″ ID Reinforced Silicone Tubing Blowout at Brew Hardware – 99 cents/ft + Ball Lock Jumpers In Stock

3/16" ID REINFORCED SILICONE TUBING (PER FOOT) BLOWOUT PRICE

3/16″ ID Reinforced Silicone Tubing via Brew Hardware.

  • Cole Palmer Saint-Gobain
  • .188″ ID x .443″ OD which is 1/8″ wall reinforced with nylon braid.
  • PPL Tygon rated for 450F
  • NSF-51
  • This usually retails for $4 a foot.

As of this posting this is marked down to just 99 cents per ft.  Price, promotions and availability can change quickly.  Please note that product prices and availability are subject to change. Prices and availability were accurate at the time this this post was published; however, they may differ from those you see when you visit the product page.  Check the product page for current price, description and availability

3/16″ ID REINFORCED SILICONE TUBING (PER FOOT) BLOWOUT PRICE

While you’re at it, check this out… BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

More: Recent Great Deals

Popular Pull Through Install Tools – back in stock at Brew Hardware

As of this posting, all variations of Brew Hardware’s popular Pull Through Install Tool are in stock.  Versions include 1/2″ NPT bulkhead install tool, 1.5″ TC Weld Ferrule install tool and a combo pack that includes both.  Price start at just $13.50.  Check Brew Hardware for current availability.

Pull Through Install Tools at Brew Hardware

Also freshly back in stock…. BALL LOCK KEG QD JUMPER POST FOR CLEANING

More: Recent Great Deals

Back in Stock – New from Brew Hardware – the Cold Crash Guardian – No Oxygen Cold Crash Blowoff

cold crash guardian

The Cold Crush Guardian via Brew Hardware

From Brew Hardware: “If you ferment in a temp controlled environment and enjoy the benefits of cold crashing, the inevitable problem is that the cooling in the fermenter creates a vacuum. The worst case scenario is that the liquid from your airlock or blowoff container gets sucked back into the beer and some portion of air from within the refrigerator is also drawn in. This has both contamination and oxidation effects on the beer even if you haven’t noticed it yet. If you’ve jumped on the New England IPA craze, even tiny amounts of oxygen will destroy that beer.”

More Info
More Info

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

There are very few discussions being had on this topic and when it is brought up, those concerned are often told not to worry about it or offered solutions that don’t work. Scroll to the bottom to read about some of these misguided solutions.

What you get:
This simple but effective kit includes a 1 gallon expandable bladder connected to a tee. The tee is pressed into a hole in a drilled stopper, grommet or carboy cap (you provide) and the top of the tee connects to an included hose that is dangled into a container of starsan solution (you provide). We include 4 feet of tubing which can be cut as necessary. We also include a hose barb splice fitting that you can insert into the stopper in order to get the tee further away from your fermenter if necessary.

How it works:
As your wort ferments, the CO2 inflates the bag full, then excess pressure is vented through the blowoff tube and bubbles through the starsan in your catch container. If yeast and trub is blown through the assembly, it will collect in the starsan container as with any other blowoff setup. If any debris makes it into the bladder, which is unlikely, it can easy be cleaned out by removing the cap from the bladder.

Once fermentation is over and you set your fermentation temp controller to COLD, the vacuum created in the fermenter will start to draw the CO2 out of the inflated bag as necessary. In most cases, the bag will deflate about a 3rd of the way for 5 gallon batches and half way for 10 gallon batches. No starsan will draw up the tubing. More importantly, only CO2 will be drawn back into the headspace. No oxygen, no starsan, no bacteria.

The barbs on the tee that insert into your fermenter are 3/8″ OD. These will fit typical openings designed for airlocks including bucket lid grommets, the larger nipple on a carboy cap, and drilled rubber stoppers.

Typical solutions offered on brewing forums:

I just plug up my fermenter so that the vacuum cannot draw anything in.
If your fermenter can hold up to the vacuum without damage or sucking your stopper down the hole, the problem is that you will eventually need to unseal it. Once the stopper is removed, oxygen rich air gets drawn in. Also don’t discount how damaging vacuum can be. You can crease PET fermenters this way. You can also implode stainless tanks.

I just use an S-style airlock because it will pass gas both directions without draining starsan back in.
The only problem this prevents is the contamination of beer with whatever liquid you have in the airlock. It does not stop oxygen.

Who cares if Starsan is drawn into the beer, it’s safe enough to drink.
Wow. Most people immediately understand the lapse of judgement here. There are endless safe things you can add to your beer that would make it taste bad.

I never had a problem with contamination or oxidation.
Some beers are more or less susceptible to off flavors/oxidation problems and some people have higher thresholds for detecting those problems. If you are completely happy with your beer despite less than ideal practices, this product is not for you.

I hook up my CO2 tank and set it to less than 1 PSI to push in CO2 when the vacuum is formed.
This is indeed how the pros handle it and of course it works. At a homebrew scale there are a few things to keep in mind. First you do need a CO2 tank, a good regulator that doesn’t drift, and a fermenter that is 100% sealed. If you have even a slow leak in the fermenter seals, kiss that whole tank of CO2 goodbye. If your regulator drifts even a couple PSI (due to being borrowed out of your cold kegerator), you can compromise your fermenters due to overpressurization.

 

COLD CRASH GUARDIAN – NO OXYGEN COLD CRASH BLOWOFF

Related: Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation & Best Sellers in Lab Erlenmeyers – via Amazon | StirStarter Stir Plate | Yeast Starters and Fermentation Resource Page

More: Recent Great Deals

Get Ready for Cooler Temps: Fermentation Heat Wrap – $16 at Brew Hardware + Inkbird Hands on Review

FERMENTATION HEAT WRAP

About via Brew Hardware… “This simple heating wrap has a lot of surface area for nice even heat around any carboy or bucket. Wrap it around and secure with either tape or a large rubberband/bungie cord. This unit does NOT have a built in thermostat so you will need to use a controller of some sort such as the STC-1000, Johnson A419, or the new Inkbird controller that we offer.” [keep reading]

As of this posting, this is marked down to just $16.  Shipping is a Flat $7.99 with a $150 order or free with a $299 order.  Check the product page for current price and availability.

FERMENTATION HEAT WRAP

Also Consider: Inkbird Dual Stage Temp Controller

More: Recent Great Deals


Inkbird ITC-308 – Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller | Review | Inkbird Deals

rp:bhhw

304 Stainless Steel Clip on Trub Guard from Brew Hardware – $10

CLIP-ON TRUB GUARD

CLIP-ON TRUB GUARD via Brew Hardware

From the description: “Keep most of that trub out of your drain without a filter device.

This is a slight reconfiguration of our heat shield assembly that allows clipping to the side of a kettle dip tube to keep your pile of trub away from the exit point. This is especially useful when you whirlpool your boiled wort to make a neat pile in the center of the pot. That pile usually stays put until it becomes exposed to air and then it collapses and falls towards the sidewalls of your pot. This simple clip on guard will stay in place during the whole boil and keep most of the trub out of the pickup at the end of the draining process.

We position the clip for best fit on our truebulkheadelbarb but it will also work with a street elbow threaded into a welded coupling bulkhead that acts as a mini diptube.

The 3″ high x 5″ wide stainless plate should be touching the bottom of the pot for best results. The plate and clip are 304 stainless steel.”

CLIP-ON TRUB GUARD

More: Recent Great Deals