Pro Flow Dynamics

Pro Flow Dynamics

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

March Pump: Priming Port to the Rescue + 10% Off High Flow Pump

EDIT: An updated version of this post exists.  Updated Post.


This is a follow up to the post "Jamil-o-chiller Whirlpool Immersion Chiller = Amazing"

Well the Jamil-o-chiller is still amazing.  This post focuses more on the March Pump side of the equation.

Frankly, I struggled with the pump for a good portion of the time I've had it.  It continually lost prime and less often, completely clogged up with grain material.   Disassembling the pump head is not what I consider a real time saver.  That's no good!

For those of you that have a pump, you probably already know the answer to my problem.

The answer ... A purge/priming port!


This port allows me to easily and quickly prime the pump.  I open the port and drain directly into a 1 gallon pitcher.  This primes the pump and it also clears the initial husk and grain material that comes from the mash.

Adding this port has saved me a lot of time and frustration and it's made the pump a joy to use and a real time saver.


Now this kicks off easily every time and with More Beer's high flow pump, I have pressure to spare.

If you want to do this...

Parts list:
(3) 1/2" Cam and Groove Adapter X 1/2" Male NPT from Brewer's Hardware or Pro Flow Dynamics


If you're not using the cam and groove quick disconnect system you can swap these out for a barb or whatever system you are using.  If you're looking for a quick disconnect system... I highly recommend the cam and groove setup.  You could get away with nothing on the priming side, but I like the looks of this.


(2) 1/2" Full Flow Ball Valves - Brewer's Hardware or More Beer
March Brewing Pump - High Flow H315HF from More Beer - $149.95 + Free Shipping
Save 10% in November by using coupon code STAGENOV11
Teflon Tape - $1.50 More Beer


Here's the assembly order:


Cam and Groove
|
Tee -- Nipple -- Ball Valve -- Street Elbow -- Cam and Groove
|
Pump Inlet
|
Pump Head
|
Pump Outlet
|
Street Elbow
|
Ball Valve
|
Cam and Groove


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Related: Amazon, Amazon Fillers, More Beer, More Beer Fillers, All Grain, Brew Stands , ag, Tips Tag, Tips Page, Top Finds, Favorite Things


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7 comments:

  1. Your pump head is upside down. Inlet on the bottom helps clear the air out better. Same goes when head is horizontal. Take a look at the location of the outlet hole inside the pump head. Input down allows complete purging of air, up doesn't.

    I am not really buying the bleed valve being on the input side either. It would prime better on the output side. Grains still have a chance of settling in the pump the way you have it, so having it on the outlet isn't much different. Disconnecting the input hose and draining a bit is a different approach to clear grains.

    There are "auto-bleed" valves some guys are using. It is a standard plumbing part, but I have only seen brass versions.

    ReplyDelete

  2. First, this configuration works great.

    I've read arguments both ways on pump orientation, so I'll just agree to disagree with you on that one.

    As far as your comment about the priming port, I'm confused.

    You would place the inlet down and the priming port on the outlet to reduce the chance of grains getting in the pump head?

    If you're priming on the outlet side, the liquid that comes through the priming port must first go through the pump head. This would give you a 100% chance of getting grain in the pump head.

    ReplyDelete

  3. RE: pump orientation- it is always possible to find people on both sides of any argument. It still doesn't make the Grand Canyon only 5000 years old. Look at the exit hole location. Even Walter at March pump recommends this orientation.

    Your system may work great, just like many people would say not using a priming port also works great. Yours is an improvement to manually disconnecting hoses to bleed air. I feel my orientation, that I learned from others, is a further improvement.

    I would take almost no effort to try it. As you know, the pump head can be spun by removing 4 screws. A test with some water wouldn't cost you anything but a little time.

    RE:priming
    Your process description was a little vague, but I assumed you were priming using the output of a vessel (MT) into the inlet of the pump, then diverting some wort out of the "T" prior to the pump.

    With the pump input up, some detritus can still settle past the bypass on the "T", though most surely less than bleeding after the pump.

    That is why I offered the alternate strategy of disconnecting the input hose, and vorlaufing as you do with the "priming port", then reconnecting and priming. No chance of grain that way. Although, I haven't had that much of an issue with enough grain getting by my screen to clog my pump.

    If you dislike disconnecting hoses, your "priming port" could be left in place with the input down. Bleeding off the initial runnings in this orientation would prevent grains from settling in the pump, since gravity would help prevent the grain from making it past the bypass and into the pump.

    With the pump oriented correctly (my way), a priming port on the outlet, or anywhere, isn't even needed. Simply opening the destination valve allows the pump to completely fill with liquid, which is the point of priming, not bleeding off liquid prior to the pump. That is why orienting the pump so the internal outlet port allows the air to be cleared by the incoming liquid is so effective.

    ReplyDelete

  4. Ahh, that makes more sense about the priming port on the outlet side. I do not want to manually vorlauf, but that makes sense.

    I appreciate your comments. I plan to look into it a bit more when I get some time.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete

  5. I wasn't talking about bucket vorlaufing the whole time, just the initial grain clearing you already describe doing. The valve would be a bit easier, but also more complex. It is a trade-off. Depends on how much you dislike disconnecting and reconnecting the hose from the vessel (or just waiting to connect until the initial purge is done), and buying/cleaning/dealing with the extra complexity.

    With a purge valve on the inlet (when down), there could be clearance issues with that much hanging below the pump, unless the mounting plate is high enough.

    Purging and priming really are separate end goals. Knowing the optimum solution for each allows an evaluation of a compromise.

    It would be nice if the homebrew shops would start selling the center inlet version of these pumps. They prime and flow much better. The March rep continually suggests it. The inline model has a cult following for some reason. Makes no sense, but then again, neither do cults.

    ReplyDelete

  6. I wasn't talking about bucket vorlaufing the whole time, just the initial grain clearing you already describe doing. The valve would be a bit easier, but also more complex. It's a trade-off that depends on how much you dislike disconnecting and reconnecting the hose from the vessel (or just waiting to connect until the initial purge is done), and buying/cleaning/dealing with the extra complexity.

    With a purge valve on the inlet (in a down orientation), there could be clearance issues with that much hanging below the pump, unless the mounting plate is high enough.

    Purging and priming really are separate end goals. Knowing the optimum solution for each allows an evaluation of a compromise.

    It would be nice if the homebrew shops would start selling the center inlet version of these pumps. They prime and flow much better. The March rep continually suggests it. The inline model has a cult following for some reason. Makes no sense, but then again, neither do cults.

    ReplyDelete

  7. Looks like a lot of work to fix an orientation problem. The manufacturer of the pump recommends inlet down / outlet up. That's what works best. Glad your solution works for you, but there are better ways.

    ReplyDelete

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